# Exercise guidelines ?



## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

Winston will be 1 in a few days! When he was younger (and was winter, rainy spring) I had been following the general rule of thumb for min amount of physical exercise based on age in months. That went out the window when summer came along and he received much more in some days, especially during the 4 weeks at the cottage. Now that rainy fall is here and winter around the corner, I wanted to find the guideline table that has been posted here b4. Can someone point in out please?

Coincidentally, while searching (unsuccessfully) I came across some older posts about accidentally creating “super athletes” by providing too much physical activity and that got me all worried that may have been overdoing it 🤦‍♀️.


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## Starla (Nov 5, 2020)

Exercise Guidelines for Puppies (By Puppy Culture) – Inugami – Finnish Spitz







www.inugami.ca





Here is the link to the puppy culture guidelines. I will say, I believe they are a bit conservative. For instance, my puppy came home on Memorial Day and has been swimming more and more throughout the summer. She’s not 6 months old yet, but has swam an hour or two on the weekends the last month or two (and we don’t even own a doggy life jacket). And I don’t think we’ve created some super-athlete.


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## Apricot mini momma (Dec 22, 2020)

Starla said:


> Exercise Guidelines for Puppies (By Puppy Culture) – Inugami – Finnish Spitz
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I do hope that chart is very conservative. Beau has gotten much more in most of those rows and columns along his life timeline.

I haven’t pushed Beau at all, and he exceeds those guidelines on his own. He LOVES to jump up (and off) on things like stumps and benches and started doing it on his own when he was about 7-8 months. At first I tried to deter him, but thought maybe if it was on his own discretion and not repetitive that it was ok. I do worry about that sometimes (but again I didn’t stop him from doing it - maybe I should have). 

He will also run in play (not zoomiez), back and forth on the lawn quite a lot on his own. He’ll race up to a toy and then run around with it. We’ll do 2-2.5 mile trail walks regularly but we worked up to that. I would say he’s very strong and loves to run but also not super athlete.


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

Thanks so much! I’m also going to start changing up his schedule and routine so that better matches my work schedule at home and the couple days will be going in. His mindset right now is “if I’m not sleeping in my crate, it must be time for full on play time”. Totally my fault but when was so nice in spring/summer and we’d been cooped up all this time, I too wanted to get out and play 😀


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## PeggyTheParti (Sep 5, 2019)

When I think of creating a “super athlete,” I think of one local resident who’s been running her dog out the side of her car! That’s an extreme example, but I think it’s the exact sort of exercise those guidelines try to deter: relentless forward momentum on a hard surface.

We strictly limited walking for much of Peggy’s first year, but splashing in the water or long-leash sniffy hikes on a soft trail? Didn’t really worry about that. Same with backyard play. She could do as much as she wanted.


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## Basil_the_Spoo (Sep 1, 2020)

No lol super athlete is just a happy accident. It's their natural response to stimulus (exercise) much like how we adapt to exercise aswell. It's a very linear approach to the question "how to tire my puppy out" with the answer "more exercise..".

Well not every human wants to walk for 90 minutes at 3mph just to tire their poodle out. So we try to encourage a more dynamic approach to "work smarter not harder", so you can encorporate more sniff-stuff walks, and more time and attention to exercising their brain to tire them out, and just do the bare minimum of physical exercise.

The human analogy would be to cross train. For example - movement patters with zumba, flexability with yoga, some walking, learning how to play the piano, and chess club... or you could run 1/2 marathon everyday. Ehhh, nah, let me pick the route where I can wear my sandles for as long as possible.


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## PeggyTheParti (Sep 5, 2019)

Well said.  

Or if every time your puppy needs a nap, you instead interpret that restlessness as needing _more_ exercise, you’re going to build a super athlete who is running on pure adrenaline and therefore finding it increasingly difficult to settle. A bad cycle.


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

The super athlete post discussion concerned me because it also talked about expectations. I don’t want Winston to have learned to expect a high level of exercise/play that is ultimately not sustainable during rainy/winter months. I guess Im looking for a better balance btw what he needs and what I can reasonably and consistently provide. I was reading I think recent posts about people’s morning schedules and people getting up at 5-5h30 for walks! Oh my! That’s never going to happen here. A morning person I am not - I’d love to be one but is not in my DNA. I didn’t even get up that early with my kids (thankfully they were GREAT sleepers!).


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## PeggyTheParti (Sep 5, 2019)

SirWinston said:


> The super athlete post discussion concerned me because it also talked about expectations. I don’t want Winston to have learned to expect a high level of exercise/play that is ultimately not sustainable during rainy/winter months. I guess Im looking for a better balance btw what he needs and what I can reasonably and consistently provide. I was reading I think recent posts about people’s morning schedules and people getting up at 5-5h30 for walks! Oh my! That’s never going to happen here. A morning person I am not - I’d love to be one but is not in my DNA. I didn’t even get up that early with my kids (thankfully they were GREAT sleepers!).


Athleticism aside, poodles like to have purpose. You can fulfill that purpose in all sorts of different ways.

Have you built up a good repertoire of tricks? If she’s restless, I’ll grab a quarter cup of kibble and work through Peggy’s for a few minutes. That takes the edge right off. A 15-minute walk, on the other hand, would just leave her wondering what’s next.


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

Basil_the_Spoo said:


> No lol super athlete is just a happy accident. It's their natural response to stimulus (exercise) much like how we adapt to exercise aswell. It's a very linear approach to the question "how to tire my puppy out" with the answer "more exercise..".
> 
> Well not every human wants to walk for 90 minutes at 3mph just to tire their poodle out. So we try to encourage a more dynamic approach to "work smarter not harder", so you can encorporate more sniff-stuff walks, and more time and attention to exercising their brain to tire them out, and just do the bare minimum of physical exercise.
> 
> The human analogy would be to cross train. For example - movement patters with zumba, flexability with yoga, some walking, learning how to play the piano, and chess club... or you could run 1/2 marathon everyday. Ehhh, nah, let me pick the route where I can wear my sandles for as long as possible.


Yes well said! Ok I feel better already. I do lots of mental activities with him as well and will keep that up and incorporate new ideas.

I need more guidance on sniff “walks” vs “healing”. His heal is a work in progress much to my chagrin. He is a puller. I have concluded that is partly my fault b/c of inside use of a leash to keep him outta trouble (we relied on it incorrectly rather than use our words). Lesson learned. Anyway, I’ve got the healing coming along and know what methods to use. What we struggle with are the sniff walks (or sniff portion of walk). How can I reinforce not pulling? Do you use a word to let know that can sniff around or do you simply release from heal? And then what command/how to stop pulling afterwards? I’m just concerned been confusing him. I do release him from heal but then have simply been saying ah ah don’t pull (in french - I’m french speaking. If continues, then I stopand have him do his sit beside me and start over. Any advice?


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

PeggyTheParti said:


> Athleticism aside, poodles like to have purpose. You can fulfill that purpose in all sorts of different ways.
> 
> Have you built up a good repertoire of tricks? If she’s restless, I’ll grab a quarter cup of kibble and work through Peggy’s for a few minutes. That takes the edge right off. A 15-minute walk, on the other hand, would just leave her wondering what’s next.


Yes Winston had a great repertoire and I keep adding. And we go through the usual commands, aand do things like dog sit-uos, push-ups, etc. Have to say it is SO rewarding when they learn something new and it sticks!


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## TeamHellhound (Feb 5, 2021)

Apricot mini momma said:


> I do hope that chart is very conservative. Beau has gotten much more in most of those rows and columns along his life timeline.


The Puppy Culture chart is _extremely _conservative.


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## PeggyTheParti (Sep 5, 2019)

Starla said:


> Exercise Guidelines for Puppies (By Puppy Culture) – Inugami – Finnish Spitz
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That chart places no limits on puppy-led swimming. The life jacket thing just seems to be a general safety rule, as they recommend it through adulthood.


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## PeggyTheParti (Sep 5, 2019)

TeamHellhound said:


> The Puppy Culture chart is _extremely _conservative.


I think what they’re really pushing back against is exercising your puppy without checking in with your puppy. There’s a local peak my husband frequents, and without fail he sees people dragging their puppies and senior dogs up the trail. They expect their dog to exercise at the same pace and in the same way they do.

Another example of “bad” exercise would be repetitive jumping. I have a family member who would tire out her puppy by jumping him over an indoor hurdle, on hardwood floors. Back and forth and back and forth. I’m not sure I’d have realized just how bad that was if not for Puppy Culture and Poodle Forum.


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## TeamHellhound (Feb 5, 2021)

SirWinston said:


> Yes well said! Ok I feel better already. I do lots of mental activities with him as well and will keep that up and incorporate new ideas.
> 
> I need more guidance on sniff “walks” vs “healing”. His heal is a work in progress much to my chagrin. He is a puller. I have concluded that is partly my fault b/c of inside use of a leash to keep him outta trouble (we relied on it incorrectly rather than use our words). Lesson learned. Anyway, I’ve got the healing coming along and know what methods to use. What we struggle with are the sniff walks (or sniff portion of walk). How can I reinforce not pulling? Do you use a word to let know that can sniff around or do you simply release from heal? And then what command/how to stop pulling afterwards? I’m just concerned been confusing him. I do release him from heal but then have simply been saying ah ah don’t pull (in french - I’m french speaking. If continues, then I stopand have him do his sit beside me and start over. Any advice?


Do you mean loose leash walking or heeling? There is a difference between them Loose leash walking is just that, it doesn't matter where the dog is in location to you, as long as they keep the leash slack. There is a more focused version where the dog stays in a relatively close position, paying casual attention to you. On the other hand, heeling is a formal "you get in this position, and stay in this position no matter what direction I move in" behavior, where the dog has to pay super close attention to you. 

You can definitely put sniffing on cue. As you are walking, tell him something like "go sniff", and direct him to the spot you've picked out. After he's sniffed a bit, call him to you, feed him a treat, give you walking cue, and continue on.


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## Starla (Nov 5, 2020)

PeggyTheParti said:


> That chart places no limits on puppy-led swimming. The life jacket thing just seems to be a general safety rule, as they recommend it through adulthood.


They do say to limit swimming to a few minutes at a time for 6-12 months. I think other parts are very conservative also, but I also think they’re not as black and white as the swimming guidelines. For instance, walking to the park about 3/4 of a mile away is no big deal at 4 months old (to me and my current/recent dogs). But we’re strolling, not marching, and I encourage the dogs to walk in the grass and not on the sidewalk. Like I said, a lot more gray area.


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## PeggyTheParti (Sep 5, 2019)

Starla said:


> They do say to limit swimming to a few minutes at a time for 6-12 months. I think other parts are very conservative also, but I also think they’re not as black and white as the swimming guidelines. For instance, walking to the park about 3/4 of a mile away is no big deal at 4 months old (to me and my current/recent dogs). But we’re strolling, not marching, and I encourage the dogs to walk in the grass and not on the sidewalk. Like I said, a lot more gray area.


I find some of it confusing, but I think when they say “for a few minutes at a time” they just mean frequent breaks from swimming, which I’m sure Phoebe gets. She’s not like some labs I’ve seen who will swim out into the ocean after seagulls and just....keep going.

I also think a lot of the chart is just plain common sense among passionate dog lovers, but not everyone has that knowledge of dogs. For example, I’ve seen folks in our neighborhood walking their adolescents on leashes so tight, they have no choice but to stay in lockstep with their owners. No brief pause to sniff. No variation in their pace or direction. Just relentless march march march on the sidewalk, at the human’s pace. That would be murder on a puppy’s joints, not to mention their mental well-being. And the more fearful they get of the world around them, the tighter the leash gets.

I don’t like to anthropomorphize, but I think some owners could benefit from seeing their puppies a little more like toddlers. You don’t take a toddler out jogging for an hour, but you may let them play at the park that long.


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## cowpony (Dec 30, 2009)

Regarding loose leash walking, I want ro see a bend in the leash when my hand is next to my hip and I am walking at my normal pace. Sometimes it can be difficult to realize the dog is taking control of the walk. I find myself moving faster and faster while my arm raises in front of me to keep a loose leash. Therefore, I practice walking at a consistent speed with my hand at my hip. When I realize the dog is pulling me, I issue the command "easy". Then I simply stop walking and freeze in place with my hand on my hip. 

I wait until the dog looks back at me. Usually the dog accidentally gives me a little bit of slack when he looks back. I then take one step forward. If the dog starts pulling I immediately freeze again. I want the dog to immediately feel that pulling on the leash turns me into a boring immobile human. We only move forward to do fun things when the leash is loose. 

Eventually, the dog will slow and glance back when I say "easy." He anticipates that I am about to freeze in place. Slowing gives me some slack in the leash, exactly what I wanted. I tell him "good boy" and keep walking. 

Galen has learned to gently bump the leash when he wants my attention. He walks on a loose leash until he wants to sniff something. Then he gives a quick tug on the leash, looks back at me, and looks where he wants to sniff. I consider this a polite request, so I usually stop to let him sniff. I may even walk a few steps out of our way to accommodate his sniffing. However, I don't let him drag me. Dragging me makes me freeze in place. I may even turn around and walk back the way we came if he is being very stubborn. (I needed to turn around earlier this week when Galen wanted to chase a rabbit.)


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

TeamHellhound said:


> Do you mean loose leash walking or heeling? There is a difference between them Loose leash walking is just that, it doesn't matter where the dog is in location to you, as long as they keep the leash slack. There is a more focused version where the dog stays in a relatively close position, paying casual attention to you. On the other hand, heeling is a formal "you get in this position, and stay in this position no matter what direction I move in" behavior, where the dog has to pay super close attention to you.
> 
> You can definitely put sniffing on cue. As you are walking, tell him something like "go sniff", and direct him to the spot you've picked out. After he's sniffed a bit, call him to you, feed him a treat, give you walking cue, and continue on.


Good questions! I guess then the issue I am having is how to teach loose leash walking in general vs. healing. Maybe I’m doing this all wrong?! When I am working on healing, I want him to walk beside me (loose leash of course). When not in a heal position, I give him more leash and if there happens to be something he wants to sniff that is on his path (and doesn’t require to pull to get to) then that’s fine. 

When loose leash walking, he always wants to be ahead of me but if he pulls, what do you do? How do you correct, etc?
Is it ok that he is ahead of me when loose leash walking?
When you take your spoos for an average walk (quite road, no crowds), what does this look like? Mostly loose leash, some strict healing? When and how much much do you do either)?

Sorry, lots of questions. Just really want to do right by him.


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## cowpony (Dec 30, 2009)

When loose leash walking I let the dog be wherever he wants. He can go in front, drop back to take a quick sniff, and catch up if he can do it all while not pulling. My only rule is that he is not allowed to switch lanes while he is behind me. He must stay on the same side when he catches up. I don't want to be clotheslined by the leash.


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

Starla said:


> They do say to limit swimming to a few minutes at a time for 6-12 months. I think other parts are very conservative also, but I also think they’re not as black and white as the swimming guidelines. For instance, walking to the park about 3/4 of a mile away is no big deal at 4 months old (to me and my current/recent dogs). But we’re strolling, not marching, and I encourage the dogs to walk in the grass and not on the sidewalk. Like I said, a lot more gray area.


Winston has definitely surpassed this then but mostly on his own. Not constant swimming across a lake or anything like that but jumping off dock repeatedly to “save me”. I think this kind of running off dock is likely ok b/c for hips cause landing in water?
We did end up having to use a life jacket because his bum would sink! Don’t know if he will get better with age. He’s no small guy. Over 60pds a couple months ago (I’m almost afraid to weigh him.) He was only supposed to be 50pds max!


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## Liz (Oct 2, 2010)

SirWinston said:


> We did end up having to use a life jacket because his bum would sink! Don’t know if he will get better with age. He’s no small guy. Over 60pds a couple months ago (I’m almost afraid to weigh him.) He was only supposed to be 50pds max!


Male poodles often have a hard time learning to keep their butt up while swimming. Kudos for seeing the problem and getting him a vest. They usually figure out with practice by the time they're 2-3 years old.


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## Basil_the_Spoo (Sep 1, 2020)

SirWinston said:


> Yes well said! Ok I feel better already. I do lots of mental activities with him as well and will keep that up and incorporate new ideas.
> 
> I need more guidance on sniff “walks” vs “healing”. His heal is a work in progress much to my chagrin. He is a puller. I have concluded that is partly my fault b/c of inside use of a leash to keep him outta trouble (we relied on it incorrectly rather than use our words). Lesson learned. Anyway, I’ve got the healing coming along and know what methods to use. What we struggle with are the sniff walks (or sniff portion of walk). How can I reinforce not pulling? Do you use a word to let know that can sniff around or do you simply release from heal? And then what command/how to stop pulling afterwards? I’m just concerned been confusing him. I do release him from heal but then have simply been saying ah ah don’t pull (in french - I’m french speaking. If continues, then I stopand have him do his sit beside me and start over. Any advice?


Just walk a slower leisure pace. Walk from grassy spot to grassy spot on a walk. Slowww down. Don't be in a rush to from A to B. Pretend your poodle is a metal detector on the beach. Let them smell every inch. Walk like your 65 and retired. Not to sound weird, but our puppies like to smell other dogs pee lol and that is "good" so let them.

Find some good residential sidewalks with 4-6 feet of grass and just slowly walk down the sidewalk.

Rather then thinking "we need to cover x amount of distance in Y amount of time" think "I'll slow down and allow my furbaby to smell every square inch of grassy area. The fresh air and sniffing will tire him out."


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## Rose n Poos (Sep 22, 2017)

This is a companion piece to the chart. It gives the Why behind the How Much.

APPROPRIATE EXERCISE – PUPPY CULTURE (shoppuppyculture.com)


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

Thank you so much everyone! I’m armed with renewed confidence and new information for is both!


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## Skylar (Jul 29, 2016)

SirWinston said:


> loose leash walking in general vs. healing


When dog owners talk about heeling they usually mean loose leash walking…. Dog near your side and the leash falls with a nice “j” shape because the dog isn’t pulling. Heeling and loose leash walking mean the same to most people.

Heeling for those of us who do dog sports is a very specific, well defined behavior that takes a long time to train and is not something you do when taking your dog to potty or for a walk in the park. It’s as if your dog is glued to your hip, the second you take a step your dog is also stepping, you step back, dog steps back, you twist or turn and dog goes with your body. The dog has to be closely watching your body to move smoothly with you, whether you walk slow or fast. It’s hard work for the dog to heel. Loose leash walking Is what we do to potty dogs or take them for walks.



SirWinston said:


> When loose leash walking, he always wants to be ahead of me but if he pulls, what do you do? How do you correct, etc?
> Is it ok that he is ahead of me when loose leash walking?
> When you take your spoos for an average walk (quite road, no crowds), what does this look like? Mostly loose leash, some strict healing? When and how much much do you do either)?


Loose leash walking means there is some slack in the leash so it forms a “j” shape whether dog is ahead, behind or next to you. Obviously if you have a 6’ leash the dog isn’t too far away from your side.

When they pull…you stop ”be a statue, be boring “. Don’t move.

If you want to use treats in training you stand like a statue until your dog comes back to your side and leash is loose. When dog is in proper position click or say your marker word (I say “yes”) and treat, then I move forward. If you don’t want to treat, the dog is simply rewarded by you moving forward.

You don’t pull on leash or ask your dog to come close, you are silent, let your dog try different things and experiment. Your dog will learn on it’s own that if he/she wants to go forward they need to stay close to you and not pull the leash.

I never do strict heeling with my dog unless I’m training for dog competition. Pet dogs don’t need to do strict heeling.

You want your dog to be loose leash heeling all the time, except when they are sniffing around to go potty, or you want to let them have fun sniffing.

Sniffing can be put on a command … I say “go sniff”. That tells my dogs they can sniff which means the dogs meander, following the odor where it leads them. They may pull on a leash if the scent trails off to where I can’t follow. Heads are usually down near the ground focused on odor and not on their handler.

It’s fair to give the dog sniff time to potty before a walk. It’s also nice to let your dog have sniffing time when in a new location or where you know many dogs congregate and left pee mail.

What is the goal of the walk? Is it for you to get exercise? Give dog time to potty and some sniffing then expect dog to loose leash walk for rest of the walk… some dogs will have multiple pees and sometimes poops so they need sniff breaks along the way. Other dogs don’t …you know your dog best.

Are you exercising your dog? Some dogs love long meandering sniffy walks, others need to walk and will choose to loose leash walk.

On my block there’s a strip of land owned by the community and not a homeowners property. Almost every one with a dog who is walked to potty is loose leash walked down to “no man’s land”. I let my dogs sniff on my property in case they need to potty immediately. We then loose leash walk to “no man’s land” to potty and sniff. Loose leash walking home.


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## SirWinston (Feb 20, 2021)

Thx Skylar for the detailed info. Greatly appreciated.


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## Jbean (Feb 18, 2019)

That puppy culture chart is just silly. Pug puppies and German shorthair puppies need vastly different amounts of exercise! I'm in the "can't overdo exercise" camp. 

I consider loose leash walking and heeling for obedience to be two different skills. Loose leash walking is not optional, heeling is only on command.


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## PeggyTheParti (Sep 5, 2019)

An excerpt from the companion piece to that chart, which is available in its entirely via the link Rose shared:



These are guidelines based on our personal experience with broken toes, broken bones, soft tissue injuries, torn cruciate ligaments, and all other manner of exercise and play injuries in the 33 years that we’ve had Bull Terriers. You may find it too conservative or not conservative enough, but this is our best recommendation based on our experience and the available studies. 
I am not a veterinarian and this is not intended as veterinary advice. You should always consult your breeder and veterinarian about the best exercise program for your puppy.
These ages for growth plate closure are only generalities and will vary from puppy to puppy. There will also be a differences in recommendation based on your dog’s breed - giant breed puppies’ growth plates tend to close later and small breed puppies growth plates close earlier. 
Sex hormones are what signal growth plates to close, so If your puppy was neutered before around 18 months old, he will have some delay in growth plate closure, and he will also have uneven growth in his bones resulting in joint angles that could be more liable to injury. A more conservative approach may be warranted with early spay/neutered dogs.
There are breed-specific orthopedic concerns which are not addressed here. 
For any dog that you wish to enroll in a strenuous performance career, we highly recommend doing x-rays to confirm growth plate closure before proceeding with any intense training.


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## TuttoBene (Apr 23, 2021)

I agree that loose leash, sniffing walks are great at tiring out a dog. We will walk in the rain because after all he is a “Puddle”. I can tell when he is overtired from playing in the yard.. it’s a training exercise and then a nap. Everything in moderation. The vet says he’s in top physical condition with mild agility, long slow walks and play dates.


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