# Crate training question, 2 story house



## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

We are getting a new puppy soon.

We have never crate trained a dog before. In the past, our 'crate' was the first floor powder room. This time we are going to use a crate at night since our former pet who did not sleep in a crate as a puppy, chewed the bedroom fur iture at night! To avoid that, we are going to have new puppy sleep in a crate next to our bed which is an upstairs bedroom.

The crate is very large in anticipation of her full grown size. It is not something we could bring up and downstairs daily. 

So, if we go out of the house, what do we do? Put puppy in crate upstairs or get a second crate? Or use the powder room as before? Second crate seems the best, but the expense ...


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## N2Mischief (Dec 3, 2012)

I would vote for second crate. I have seen dogs eat door jams and chew vanities when locked in the bathroom. I think having to go upstairs before you left to crate the dog would be a pain...but then, I am no young chicken and I have a disease that makes stairs one of my greatest enemies! lol


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

N2Mischief said:


> I would vote for second crate. I have seen dogs eat door jams and chew vanities when locked in the bathroom. I think having to go upstairs before you left to crate the dog would be a pain...but then, I am no young chicken and I have a disease that makes stairs one of my greatest enemies! lol



I am no young chicken either! 

Our former poodle (now deceased) treated the powder room like a crate. Occasionally she would decide to put herself in 'her room' as we called it, if she got too worked up. But that doesnt work well when younhave company who mY want to use the powder room!


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## Indiana (Sep 11, 2011)

It kind of depends on the dog...some just aren't chewers and that shows up early on. My Indy isn't; even when there is something yummy, she'll chew a little bit and then go on and do something else, whereas Maddy LOVES to chew and has damaged a lot of our things when she ran out of bonafide chewy items or was just bored with them. For dogs like Maddy, a crate is a must when we are gone, or at night. Indy really doesn't need a crate at all. But you probably will have a feeling what your puppy is like; if she is like your last dog, the powder room will make a perfectly good 2nd crate. If she's like Maddy, the 2nd crate downstairs will be a very good investment!


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## frecklesdmk (Mar 27, 2013)

We've had a total of 4 standards over the years. 1st one at 7 months old, second at 5 months old, third at 4 months old and the last one at 8 weeks old. 

We attempted crating with 1st & 2nd (were told they were used to a crate). For various reasons it didn't go well. For the next two, we didn't even try. Luckily, we can close off rooms so we only let them in the kitchen and our bedroom when we were out. 

Had some minor chewing with the first 3. Our current one hasn't chewed any furniture, floors, walls, etc. She's 6 months old now. 


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## Oreo's Mommy (Dec 18, 2012)

I used a crate upstairs and a playpen downstairs....Oreo is a mini though.


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## PoodleRick (Mar 18, 2013)

I kinda have the same question though with our first two Spoos we had one crate upstairs in our bedroom. After a while when we would go out and couldn't take them we would just say "Bed" and they'd run upstairs and wait for their cookie. We're expecting a new pup in March so I'm thinking about one crate upstairs for nighttime and a playpen in the sun room for when we're at work. Not sure which way we're going to go just yet so I'll see what the consensus is here.

Rick


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## poodlecrazy51 (Dec 31, 2012)

40 years, We only ever had a large crate downstairs. Our first dogs, slept in them over nite. Then, something happened and I started needing them to sleep up stairs with us. The next 2 spoos were easy to house break, no chewing issues, so they early on, slept upstairs with us, no crating. Well, new puppy on the scene. A fierce chewer, hard to house break, so, we were carrying the extra large crate up and down every day, dinging up the woodwork along the way. We had to face the expense of a 2nd crate. BUT, idea...you could get a smaller one (we used her smaller shipping crate for her nitetime bed, that helps with housebreaking anyway). that will only be needed, hopefully , til your baby is reliable. Leave the big one downstairs for when you aren't home, etc. or you could do it the other way. big one upstairs, since pup would be in it at least 8 hrs, buy a smaller one ( less expensive) for her shorter duration crating during the day. You can always sell it online, when she is reliable in your room over nite. and move the big one back downstairs at that time. It is so much better for puppies to not be put in a situation, where they will fail. Like, in your bathroom where she may chew, or have an accident. (note: when our pup was in a larger crate, and not reliably house broken, we had to put in the extra wire mesh wall some come with, to make it smaller, so she wouldn't potty in that small area that was just for her bed.) I personally like having that extra crate. they can come in handy when other dogs are visiting, or our dog is doing an overnite at our sons home...we don't have to take apart the one that is sort of permanent (we have a counter top on it for extra counter space), in our laundry room. jmho


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## LEUllman (Feb 1, 2010)

We had two crates for Beau. He ended up not using either of them.


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## PoodleFoster (May 25, 2013)

Hello
Crate training is not difficult. It can be challenging but poodles are smart and learn quickly.
My suggestion is to keep the crate downstairs, do not put it in your bedroom. Puppies cry and it's too easy to give in...once you abandon the crate after TRYING crating, you've made a mistake.
Crates are NOT bad and a dog who is accustomed to them will adjust. 
Make sure you follow through. If you are a working family, start on a weekend when you can afford to loose a little sleep.
Put crate on first floor. Get yourself a pallet piece of cardboard to keep UNDER the crate. (free at most big box stores) This helps to move it around for cleaning, protects the carpet/hardwood. IF it is a metal crate, it cuts down on the noise.
Put newsprint in the crate and a LIGHT or WHITE colored towel for the poodle to sleep on. *YOu'll be able to see if there is pee or poop on a white towel. Replace often with a fresh white or light towel.
Take puppy outside for a nice walk before bed. It helps if everyone is going to bed so that there is minimal noise in the house.
Put puppy in crate, give a treat, close door and COVER WITH A TABLECLOTH/BLANKET OR BIG TOWEL. This creates a den environment. They can't see any activity and this helps them relax.
Go to BED. 
If he cries, go to him and announce 'no bark' or 'quiet'. After a few times, you may have to sleep in the next room. He will know you are there and this calms him.
DON'T GIVE IN TO THE CRYING. 
If you have to and it is safe to do so, take him out to go potty and then back in kennel and recover with your blanket. Don't make a big deal about going out, and this is not play time. If he doesn't go potty, he was just missing you.
It takes effort to resist a crying puppy. He will soon learn that his crate is for sleeping and not punishment. You are doing him a favor by teaching that crating is good.
We have fostered 31 poodles and ALL have been crate trained successfully. These were rescue dogs, most are mature dogs, but many never been crated or leashed before.
*Your puppy is safer in a crate instead of roaming in the house to chew something or jump off of something. He's going to be sleeping while you are gone, and safe.

IF you decide to purchase a second crate, scan craigslist or your local paper for a used kennel/crate. There are bargains to be had and crates/kennel are available regularly.

GOod Luck


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## PoodleFoster (May 25, 2013)

Hello
Crate training is not difficult. It can be challenging but poodles are smart and learn quickly.
My suggestion is to keep the crate downstairs, do not put it in your bedroom. Puppies cry and it's too easy to give in...once you abandon the crate after TRYING crating, you've made a mistake.
Crates are NOT bad and a dog who is accustomed to them will adjust. 
Make sure you follow through. If you are a working family, start on a weekend when you can afford to loose a little sleep.
Put crate on first floor. Get yourself a pallet piece of cardboard to keep UNDER the crate. (free at most big box stores) This helps to move it around for cleaning, protects the carpet/hardwood. IF it is a metal crate, it cuts down on the noise.
Put newsprint in the crate and a LIGHT or WHITE colored towel for the poodle to sleep on. *YOu'll be able to see if there is pee or poop on a white towel. Replace often with a fresh white or light towel.
Take puppy outside for a nice walk before bed. It helps if everyone is going to bed so that there is minimal noise in the house.
Put puppy in crate, give a treat, close door and COVER WITH A TABLECLOTH/BLANKET OR BIG TOWEL. This creates a den environment. They can't see any activity and this helps them relax.
Go to BED. 
If he cries, go to him and announce 'no bark' or 'quiet'. After a few times, you may have to sleep in the next room. He will know you are there and this calms him.
DON'T GIVE IN TO THE CRYING. 
If you have to and it is safe to do so, take him out to go potty and then back in kennel and recover with your blanket. Don't make a big deal about going out, and this is not play time. If he doesn't go potty, he was just missing you.
It takes effort to resist a crying puppy. He will soon learn that his crate is for sleeping and not punishment. You are doing him a favor by teaching that crating is good.
We have fostered 31 poodles and ALL have been crate trained successfully. These were rescue dogs, most are mature dogs, but many never been crated or leashed before.
*Your puppy is safer in a crate instead of roaming in the house to chew something or jump off of something. He's going to be sleeping while you are gone, and safe.

IF you decide to purchase a second crate, scan craigslist or your local paper for a used kennel/crate. There are bargains to be had and crates/kennel are available regularly.

Good Luck


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

PoodleFoster said:


> Hello
> Crate training is not difficult. It can be challenging but poodles are smart and learn quickly.
> My suggestion is to keep the crate downstairs, do not put it in your bedroom. Puppies cry and it's too easy to give in...once you abandon the crate after TRYING crating, you've made a mistake.
> Crates are NOT bad and a dog who is accustomed to them will adjust.
> ...


Thanks PF. Good tips. However, we are a one dog at a time family and our dog has always slept in our room at the foot of the bed (ie on her own bed located just t the foot of ours). Mynplan was to have puppy in her crate in that position.

Our other dogs were very happy in the bedroom and would go up for a nap even when we were downstairs during the day if they felt they wanted one. The crate is to avoid random chewing thru the night and for travel as well.

We are retired so we do not have the long days where puppy is left alone to deal with.

PS bless you for fostering all those dogs in need of a home.


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## PoodleFoster (May 25, 2013)

Hello
I guess I misunderstood your original question! I thought you were asking about crate training and if you might purchase 1 or 2 crates.
My post was about crate training and how we have managed to formulate a system. 
It works. 
Our 4 poodles are also crate trained and 3 sleep on the bed and one sleeps on his pillow on the floor. Crate training is for when we leave the home, or when I'm grooming a dog. Our poodles retire to their crates to rest and or have a drink during the day hours! 
Crate training comes in very handy for travel, or taking them to the vet to name a few.
I wish you good luck with your puppy!


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

PoodleFoster said:


> Hello
> I guess I misunderstood your original question! I thought you were asking about crate training and if you might purchase 1 or 2 crates.
> My post was about crate training and how we have managed to formulate a system.
> It works.
> ...


No, you are right, that was my question. And i want it for the same reason you state. But i did misunderstand about not putting the crate in the bedroom. In the beginning, i wanted her in the crate at night but in our bedroom. With our last dog, house training was a breeze but the puppy chewed the bedroom furniture at night! I wanted to not have that problem this time.


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## PoodleFoster (May 25, 2013)

SAS said:


> But i did misunderstand about not putting the crate in the bedroom. In the beginning, i wanted her in the crate at night but in our bedroom. With our last dog, house training was a breeze but the puppy chewed the bedroom furniture at night! I wanted to not have that problem this time.


Good luck with your new puppy! When does she/he arrive?
I would still have another crate on the main floor, instead of using the powder room. Hope to read about your new addition soon!


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

PoodleFoster said:


> Good luck with your new puppy! When does she/he arrive?
> I would still have another crate on the main floor, instead of using the powder room. Hope to read about your new addition soon!


Two weeks. Yes, i am excited!


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## Ciscley (Jul 16, 2013)

*I vote multiple size crates*

I do what *PoodleCrazy51* said with the service dog pups I've trained (labs and lab mixes). Small puppy sized to start for sleeping (which I keep in our bedroom) and adult sized for during the day "breaks" and feeding. We keep the large crate in our main living area and as adults the dogs sleep there instead of in the bedroom with us, but that's also part of their training, so not necessarily what I'd do with my pet dog. Though we are doing it with Desi now and it's working great, I will probably move it to our bedroom permanently when I can trust him with the run of the house while I'm at home with him. Right now we're still in limited freedom mode. 

I wouldn't sell the crates though unless you have zero storage. The collapsable metal ones are really nice and slide completely flat under a bed if needed. I just think having multiple sizes comes in too handy and every piece of dog equipment (including leashes and collars) that I have donated or trashed I have ended up regretting and rebuying. Puppies, especially Spoos, grow so quickly and you really need things at the appropriate size for each stage. 

Random comment to add: I'm thinking about having the medium sized (Desi) crate powder coated in a fun color by a local metal shop. Thinking that might make it better looking in our living room. I read somewhere that lots of grooming shops do that, so they can keep the crates looking new and also add some color.


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

Ciscley said:


> I do what *PoodleCrazy51* said with the service dog pups I've trained (labs and lab mixes). Small puppy sized to start for sleeping (which I keep in our bedroom) and adult sized for during the day "breaks" and feeding. We keep the large crate in our main living area and as adults the dogs sleep there instead of in the bedroom with us, but that's also part of their training, so not necessarily what I'd do with my pet dog. Though we are doing it with Desi now and it's working great, I will probably move it to our bedroom permanently when I can trust him with the run of the house while I'm at home with him. Right now we're still in limited freedom mode.
> 
> I wouldn't sell the crates though unless you have zero storage. The collapsable metal ones are really nice and slide completely flat under a bed if needed. I just think having multiple sizes comes in too handy and every piece of dog equipment (including leashes and collars) that I have donated or trashed I have ended up regretting and rebuying. Puppies, especially Spoos, grow so quickly and you really need things at the appropriate size for each stage.
> 
> Random comment to add: I'm thinking about having the medium sized (Desi) crate powder coated in a fun color by a local metal shop. Thinking that might make it better looking in our living room. I read somewhere that lots of grooming shops do that, so they can keep the crates looking new and also add some color.


Our groomer steered us away from the wire ones because of injuries that can happen if a puppy sticks it's leg through and that kind of thing. I did know one person whose dog ripped off a nail on one. Ever had a problem?


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## Ciscley (Jul 16, 2013)

I think that's part of the issue about having an appropriate sized one and placing it well away from walls or other immovable objects. My first Spoo boy, Jules, was rolled over on his back getting a belly rub from me while in his crate (he was @ 6 months old and very gangly) and his foot kicked out when I got to a good spot and went through the back bars. 

I had him in the XXL Great Dane sized crate so normally he could sprawl with no issues, but the addition of me petting him sent that foot shooting through the extra wide bar spacing and then he twisted and it got stuck between the wall and wire really securely. Luckily I was with him because he definitely could have injured himself trying to pull it back out. I keep at least 6 inches on all sides since then.

Danno ripped off a toe nail standing on the grate floor that they have in the self-serve pet wash facility. So I can definitely imagine it's possible, but probably much less likely if the dog's nails are regularly groomed (Danno's are not kept as short as they really should be because he's so sensitive) and I've never had a problem with my home crates because they have plastic liners on the floor and I also keep them on top of carpeting so they don't slide around or scratch my floors.

I've never had any other close calls, though I did start taking all the dog's collars off lately when they go inside (except Danno who isn't supposed to go in the crates but comes running and sneaks in whenever we let another one out.) They do make breakaway dog collars but I use a buckle martingale so it's super easy to take off and lay on top of the crate (I keep a blanket over the crate).

I just don't like how warm it gets inside a hard plastic crate and how isolated the dog is from the rest of the environment. It's great for sleep time and a restless new puppy, but the rest of the time I'm using the crate it's not to isolate the dog from us, but to give him a safe place to experience the hustle and bustle of the household. I think the open metal is much better for that. And covering with a blanket at sleep time is best of both worlds.


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

Ciscley said:


> I think that's part of the issue about having an appropriate sized one and placing it well away from walls or other immovable objects. My first Spoo boy, Jules, was rolled over on his back getting a belly rub from me while in his crate (he was @ 6 months old and very gangly) and his foot kicked out when I got to a good spot and went through the back bars and the angle he was at it got stuck between the bars and the wall. Luckily I was with him because he definitely could have injured himself trying to pull it back out.
> 
> I had him in the XXL Great Dane sized crate so normally he could sprawl with no issues, but the addition of me petting him sent that foot shooting through the extra wide bar spacing and then he twisted and it got stuck between the wall and wire really securely. I keep at least 6 inches on all sides since then.
> 
> I've never had any other close calls, though I did start taking all the dog's collars off lately when they go inside (except Danno who isn't supposed to go in the crates but comes running and sneaks in whenever we let another one out.) They do make breakaway dog collars but I use a buckle martingale so it's super easy to take off and lay on top of the crate (I keep a blanket over the crate).


Good point about rate size matching dog.

When you train a dog to one crate does that translate to any crate or is the upstairs crate a completely different matter from the downstairs crate in dog's mind?


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## Ciscley (Jul 16, 2013)

Good question! Dog's don't generalize well, but I've had much less issues with generalizing over crates than any other thing.

If you introduce them separately, like the small crate at first and then upsize later, I would say, plan on having to train each crate, knowing that it's always easier to train the "new" version of something the dog already knows. But if you train them at the same time like I do, and start "naming" the crate behavior the same with each one from the beginning, they totally seem to get it.

However, be careful and don't start closing them inside the large crate unsupervised until they are fully potty trained. Unless you use one of those dividers someone mentioned, though I prefer to let the puppy have fun playing in the big crate while I supervise. Tossing toys in and letting him go in and out. Feeding inside the big crate with the door closed while I watch, etc.


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

Ciscley said:


> Good question! Dog's don't generalize well, but I've had much less issues with generalizing over crates than any other thing.
> 
> If you introduce them separately, like the small crate at first and then upsize later, I would say, plan on having to train each crate, knowing that it's always easier to train the "new" version of something the dog already knows. But if you train them at the same time like I do, and start "naming" the crate behavior the same with each one from the beginning, they totally seem to get it.
> 
> However, be careful and don't start closing them inside the large crate unsupervised until they are fully potty trained. Unless you use one of those dividers someone mentioned, though I prefer to let the puppy have fun playing in the big crate while I supervise. Tossing toys in and letting him go in and out. Feeding inside the big crate with the door closed while I watch, etc.


I just have the big crate. It is the airline kind and did not come with a divider. I plan to bring (10 week old) puppy home in a smallish plastic laundry basket (half size) with some bedding in it. Cotton bath mat. There will be two of us so one will probably be holding her a lot but when she gets tired, i thought use the basket. It is a 5 hour trip. It actually looks a bit like a crate without a lid. I wonder if she might sleep in that upstairs at first. I imagine it will take all of about 2 days for her to learn how to climb out.


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## Ciscley (Jul 16, 2013)

My oldest girl, Roxy, slept in a very large sided card board box the first few nights we had her before getting the crate I'm still using to this day for puppies. I think it was less than $20 at the time for that crate and is more like $50 now for one that's not near as nice. 

She did perfectly fine in the box, but I think it was the tall sides and being very exhausted before going to bed more than anything else. So you could always put the laundry basket inside a taller box for a temporary thing. But I've more than gotten my money's worth out of having the small crate even though it's only useful for a month or two with each puppy.


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## PoodleFoster (May 25, 2013)

Hello
Just a thought, but does your breeder have a specific plan on how your puppy will be transported?
When we finalize a foster dog's adoption day, it is agreed that he/she will be transported in a kennel or doggie seat belt. Too much could happen in a car with a dog who is going home with 'strangers/new adopters.' 
I remember years ago taking a standard poodle puppy home and it too was a 5+ hour drive home. That puppy threw up all over me before we even hit the highway. I was powerless to do anything about it since I didn't have a change of clothes. That was one of he longest and stinkiest rides of my life....
Hope this helps!


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

PoodleFoster said:


> Hello
> Just a thought, but does your breeder have a specific plan on how your puppy will be transported?
> When we finalize a foster dog's adoption day, it is agreed that he/she will be transported in a kennel or doggie seat belt. Too much could happen in a car with a dog who is going home with 'strangers/new adopters.'
> I remember years ago taking a standard poodle puppy home and it too was a 5+ hour drive home. That puppy threw up all over me before we even hit the highway. I was powerless to do anything about it since I didn't have a change of clothes. That was one of he longest and stinkiest rides of my life....
> Hope this helps!


The breeder has not specified. I think she is too little for a doggie seatbelt. I dont want her sliding all around in a kennel that is too big. The last time i did this 15 years ago, i transported puppy by myself. I had her in a small box - big enough but not so big that she slid around a lot- on the floor,of the passenger side of the front seat.she drooled all the way, buckets. This time i think it will be easier with two of us. I do not put a lot of stock in kennels and seat belts because they have all proved to be worthless in terms of safety from my understanding. But, i will take a towel and a change of shirt, now that you mention it. I do plan to put a harness on her rather than a collar for potty stops because i do not want her to get frightened and confused and to slip a collar.


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## frecklesdmk (Mar 27, 2013)

I had a 2 hour ride home. My son drove and I sat in the backseat. I had a large deep Rubbermaid bin with towels on the bottom. She could stand up in it but couldn't climb out. I was able to pet her and put my face down to her when she was awake and crying. 

We picked her up around 7 at night so she would have been tired from playing with her siblings and the family house activity during the day. I thought if we picked her up in the morning she would be more rested and energetic


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

frecklesdmk said:


> I had a 2 hour ride home. My son drove and I sat in the backseat. I had a large deep Rubbermaid bin with towels on the bottom. She could stand up in it but couldn't climb out. I was able to pet her and put my face down to her when she was awake and crying.
> 
> We picked her up around 7 at night so she would have been tired from playing with her siblings and the family house activity during the day. I thought if we picked her up in the morning she would be more rested and energetic
> 
> ...


That is similar to our plan, except we will be getting her about noon, due to the lngth of the ride. I dont know what to do about feeding her. I dont see how she can go all day without food and water. We can carry water and a dish so she can drink at stops. I do have a concern. We will be coming back n the PA turnpike. I believe they have designated pet areas. I do not want her to potty in those areas because she will not have had all her shots yet and it seems like it would be a cesspool of canine germs. I think i will let her pee near the car this one time and of course if she poos i will clean up after her.


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## Ciscley (Jul 16, 2013)

*Puppy Transport Advice*

Be sure to have a really really long play with them at the breeder's right before loading up in the car, with one final pee and poop and make that the last thing you do, don't then go talk or sign papers or pay or anything. Do all that first. 

You should definitely offer access to water and toilet breaks frequently, but I wouldn't wake the pup up to insist on it if you luck into them sleeping on the drive as MANY pups that age and size will. I would stick to the feeding schedule the pup is already on at the breeder's as close as possible and plan on that feeding coinciding with a longer break since pup will be much more likely to toilet right after eating.

For layering in the chosen "container", a small bag of pee pads aren't that expensive and are more easily disposed of at rest stops than towels. I find it's best to put a small office size garbage can lined with a plastic bag in the car and then take extra bags for replacing the lining at stops. For soiled pee pads in route between stops, just roll up and put in the trash can or if #2 occurs, use an actual poop bag to "double bag" the stink until the next stop. 

You could also pack some baby wipes for cleaning up any paws that step in yuck (vomit or BM) though I find a water bottle and paper towels to be a good all purpose combo.

For toileting outside the car, I'd put pee pads on the ground and keep the pup on them. You could also take a big piece of cardboard (fold and store in the trunk) for putting under the pee pads if you're extra worried about the areas on your route. But honestly, if your partner holds the pup for the majority of the time and then you place the pup in a box or rubbermaid container lined with pee pads when you think it needs to pee, it will probably pee in the car while you drive.


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## SAS (Jun 16, 2013)

Ciscley said:


> Be sure to have a really really long play with them at the breeder's right before loading up in the car, with one final pee and poop and make that the last thing you do, don't then go talk or sign papers or pay or anything. Do all that first.
> 
> You should definitely offer access to water and toilet breaks frequently, but I wouldn't wake the pup up to insist on it if you luck into them sleeping on the drive as MANY pups that age and size will. I would stick to the feeding schedule the pup is already on at the breeder's as close as possible and plan on that feeding coinciding with a longer break since pup will be much more likely to toilet right after eating.
> 
> ...



Thanks for these great ideas!


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## sarahmurphy (Mar 22, 2012)

LEUllman said:


> We had two crates for Beau. He ended up not using either of them.


change that to Spike, and same story.... he sleeps in our bed - at about a year old he started moving to the bed on the floor (the dog bed???) when the bed gets too crowded or hot, or whatever it is that prompts the move... 

We use the 36 inch crate in the back seat of the new camry, and the 42 inch in the back of the honda pilot... The car people thought we were nuts - "Sorry, we can't buy this car because it won't hold a crate...

At least the crates see use....


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## JenniferH in Goleta (Jul 18, 2020)

SAS said:


> Our groomer steered us away from the wire ones because of injuries that can happen if a puppy sticks it's leg through and that kind of thing. I did know one person whose dog ripped off a nail on one. Ever had a problem?


I read several reviews on Amazon where dogs were injured or died with Midwest wire crates.


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