# Grooming questions very new to this



## warmheartedpups (Feb 27, 2012)

Hi....I have a 9.5 month old miniature poodle. I know NOTHING about grooming. Casey is not a show dog.

Petsmart gave me a brush that is full of thin wire bristles...it would seem to really hurt my pups skin....is that the right kind of brush to use? and how often should I brush him?

I think the rescue agency might have had him trimmed before I adopted hiim...but how often do you get poodles clipped? 

Noses.....do you keep a mustache (?) on the males ? or can you have a clean nose on either males or females?

What else do I need to know? This is a very new world to me....thanks all!


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## ambitious groomer (Mar 21, 2011)

The slicker brush they gave you should work great, just be careful about pressing really hard against the skin. (Some pressure is necessary) groom an avg of 6 to 8the weeks depending on length of coat, how much brushing you want to do at home, ect. The most awesome thing about poodles is you can have them groomed any way you want! Have fun with it. If you can take pics to your groomer of a look you like.


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

First of all, welcome to the world of poodles! Secondly, what are you planning on doing with Casey as far as grooming...do you want to eventually do all of it yourself (clipping, bathing, the works.  ) or are you just planning on keeping him up between professional grooming sessions? What you plan on doing will affect the answers you get. 

On to the questions you listed:

Brushing: what Petsmart gave you was a slicker brush, and yes that's the correct one. Yeah, they look a bit painful, but when used properly, they are not. When brushing, use a VERY light, pat-pull motion and line brushing. Starting at the bottom of the dog (a foot) part a section of the coat, holding it up with one hand. Bring your brush down in a light patting motion, then pull it back (Again lightly) towards you. Keep your wrist straight and hold the brush lightly. Don't flick the brush at all, that will dig the bristles into your pup's skin. Once that section of hair is thoroughly brushed ( you should see skin at the part and not feel any resistance with the brush or a comb) release another section from your "holding hand" and repeat the process. Once you've worked your way over the whole dog (Again, going from bottom to top) got back over him with a comb, just to ensure you didn't miss any tangles. Pay special attention to the neck, armpits, behind the ears, and in between the back legs. These areas mat up faster because of friction. If you would like, you can use a bit of leave in conditioner as you brush, that will help cut down on static electricity and will make for easier brushing. 

Amount of brushing depends on the coat length. Dogs with 1\2" of coat probably need to be brushed once a week, with their ears\topknot\tail (or any other longer portions) being brushed 2-3 times a week. However, if the coat is longer than 1", you probably need to brush at least 2-3 times a week, more if your dog is active or is outside in brush a lot. (poodles are like velcro, they pick up every burr, leaf, and stick. ) A weekly bath and blow dry is helpful too, although not essential for a pet. They do need to be bathed at least 1-2 times a month though. 

Clipping: that depends on how long you want the coat left. If you like Casey long and fluffy (say 3\4"+) he will need to be groomed at least once every 4 weeks. If you want to keep him shorter (less than 1\2") then once every 6-8 wks should be fine, as long as you brush him regularly. 

Face Styles: you can have anything you want.  If you want a moustsache, by all means, grow one! Or if you prefer a nice, shaved face (easier to keep clean, BTW) that's fine too. Some people even like teddy bear (round and fluffy all over) faces, but I personally don't. It's messy, gets matted easier, and IMO few poodles look good in it, I think their muzzles are too long to attain that really cute, round look. But that's just me.  

Hope that helped answer your questions.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Perfect timing.  I just made this video today to show how to use the brush you have.






There are tons of choices for style - just do whatever you like! Hair grows fast, so you can try many styles.  He'll need professional grooming every 6 - 8 weeks.


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

tortoise said:


> Perfect timing.  I just made this video today to show how to use the brush you have.
> 
> Maintaining Your Dog's Hair at Home - YouTube
> 
> There are tons of choices for style - just do whatever you like! Hair grows fast, so you can try many styles.  He'll need professional grooming every 6 - 8 weeks.


 Not to be disrespectul or anything, but that is NOT the way to use a slicker brush; when you flick your wrist like that, you are digging the pins into the dog's skin. Ouch!! Also, you're going to end up tugging and pulling at the coat, also painful. I would recommend the "Notes to the Grooming Table" by Melissa Verplank...she describes proper brushing technique in easily understandable terms.


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## all that jazz (Feb 6, 2011)

Now I am really confused. Jazz HATES to be brushed. I know I am doing something wrong. So you say I should always brush against the grain of the coat, upwards towards the spine and not flick the wrist? Also, I need to brush his whole coat at a time because he is very active and he gets unruly on a daily basis.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

mom24doggies said:


> Not to be disrespectul or anything, but that is NOT the way to use a slicker brush; when you flick your wrist like that, you are digging the pins into the dog's skin. Ouch!! Also, you're going to end up tugging and pulling at the coat, also painful. I would recommend the "Notes to the Grooming Table" by Melissa Verplank...she describes proper brushing technique in easily understandable terms.


It's not touching the skin. That's the whole point - separating hair without hurting the dog's skin.


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## Ladywolfe (Jan 11, 2012)

You aren't the only one confused. I have always line brushed my dog in the direction of hair grown, and then, after I felt no resistance, I would"fluff" the hair a bit gently, sort of straight out from the root.

Can someone please clarify this. The video looked completely different than everything I have ever read anywhere???

warmheartedpups: I am not trying to hijack. I just figured if I am not getting this, maybe you might not be, either??


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

all that jazz said:


> Now I am really confused. Jazz HATES to be brushed. I know I am doing something wrong. So you say I should always brush against the grain of the coat, upwards towards the spine and not flick the wrist? Also, I need to brush his whole coat at a time because he is very active and he gets unruly on a daily basis.


If flicking your wrist causes you to scrape the brush on your dog's skin, then don't. For me it is more efficient to flick my wrist while brushing. I've been grooming for 8 years. I have never caused rash or irritation with a slicker brush. (unfortunately, I can't say that about all brushes). I had a client whose dog was aggressive over brushing. It was a boxer mix. So the owner pulls out a slicker and enthusiastically brushes the dog - hard. I was horrified, by the time I got him to stop - just seconds - the poor dog's skin was red. Ouch! No wonder she didn't want to be brushed! Until recently, I have told my clients to not use slickers and comb the dog out instead, because I was concerned about incorrect use. But slickers are fast, and in that I believe they have value to owners. Not many people have a lot of time to dedicate to maintaining their dog. But if I can show a technique where they can groom the whole dog during a commercial break, I will.

Think of it more like patting. Touch the brush down - it will grab the hair. Then pull up THEN away. Up first, so it's not scraping the skin.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Ladywolfe said:


> You aren't the only one confused. I have always line brushed my dog in the direction of hair grown, and then, after I felt no resistance, I would"fluff" the hair a bit gently, sort of straight out from the root.
> 
> Can someone please clarify this. The video looked completely different than everything I have ever read anywhere???
> 
> warmheartedpups: I am not trying to hijack. I just figured if I am not getting this, maybe you might not be, either??


If you drag the brush on the skin, you will hurt the dog. If you don't use enough pressure, you won't reach the bottom "layer" of hair. I see this in dog that are have an inch of hair that is perfectly brushed out, but underneath this "layer" of brushed hair, the dog is matted to the skin. 

Dragging against the growth will also likely cause scraping, but it does get brushed 'to the skin', not leaving the bottom of the hair unbrushed. 

But if you go backwards, without dragging, you will separate the hair to the root without harming the dog.


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## Ladyscarletthawk (Dec 6, 2011)

I prefer the pin brush and line brushing, then combing to make sure nots are out and brush against the grain with the slicker to fluff out the coat. I will use a slicker WITH the growth of the coat as it doesnt pull as much and less painful if there are knots plus pulls out less hair than if you brush against.. I use the pat and pull method, and then will go against grain when the knots are out. Love the Le Pooch brushes as my slicker and the CC pin brushes.. the wooden one in particular.

I like the slicker on the shorter areas of the coat and I brush to the skin. Get a soft slicker and test it on your arm first and decide how tolerable it would be for the pup.. Always use a comb to check your work!!!!!


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

I'm glad that method works for you tortoise, but it is not correct, is harder on your wrist, harder on the dog, and is not going to be as efficient as line brushing with a pat-pull motion. If you try that method on a dog with a shorter coat (like 1\2-1") you ARE going to be digging into the skin. (I tried it for a few strokes on Dusty, who has about 1\2" on his back right now, and believe me he wasn't happy about it. ) On longer coated (past 1") dogs, if you don't touch the skin with that method, you will not be getting the tangles at the skin AND you'll be pulling and yanking on the coat and skin. In the video, I can see you pulling up the skin on your pup. That shouldn't be happening

I'm not trying to sound know it all, be rude, or attack anyone...I just don't want a newbie to grooming coming on here, seeing your video, and thinking that's the right way to do it. Maybe you (who have been brushing that way for a while) can do it without hurting a dog, but a person with no experience cannot. I actually filmed myself brushing Dusty's leg, using the line brushing\pat-pull method. As soon as it's done uploading to youtube, I'll post it here.


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

Ladyscarletthawk said:


> ...Get a soft slicker and test it on your arm first and decide how tolerable it would be for the pup.. Always use a comb to check your work!!!!!


 This is how I learned to be gentle when brushing...I did it to myself first. When I was teaching my siblings how to brush properly, I showed them on their arm the difference between gentle/correct and rough. They learned really quickly!! 

Here's the video showing how I personally brush. Hopefully it will be helpful.  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgh9-agIJmI&feature=youtu.be


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## Panda (Jan 7, 2010)

Thanks so much for the videos! I have been doing it completely wrong and was just basically pulling the slicker through the coat from the neck to the base of the tail in one motion! Next time I brush him I will use this new method, maybe my new les poochs slickers will have arrived by then too


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## 3dogs (Nov 3, 2010)

I personally use a slicker brush BUT there are different types out there. I don't use a "hard" slicker. Most of mine are "Medium". I drag the tines on my arm & if it hurts the tines are too hard. I use CC slickers, 1 have curved ones which are my favorites (helps in not snapping the writs) & then I have a very small one that I use on all my small dogs & my OT as well by CC. I like the tine length as well. I do not use long strokes, flick my wrist or brush dry. I also always mist the section of coat with something- Mane & Tail, CC, IOD, Coat handler etc... but I always mist the section before I begin. I do method brushing & not random brushing. My dog is always secure on my table- I mist the left hind leg from hock down, then I start to line brush but I stroke upwards, then take a section & stroke down, I do the whole section from paw on up to hock & the front side. Then I put down my brush, COMB that whole area & if my comb goes on through then I go to my next section which will be the left hind thigh, stifle, up to the hip. Mist, brush up, section down, Comb. Next, hip area, tail, a little spine in front of hips. then repeat everything on the right hind leg. Once the 2 sides have met I then do the body to the front legs. My front legs I do 2-4 sectionsetc. Then I do withers up Crest & then do the head. Always, mist, brush, comb in sections.


It sounds like alot but once you get the hang of it & done often enough then a good 10 minutes & I am done.


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## Ladyscarletthawk (Dec 6, 2011)

mom24doggies said:


> This is how I learned to be gentle when brushing...I did it to myself first. When I was teaching my siblings how to brush properly, I showed them on their arm the difference between gentle/correct and rough. They learned really quickly!!
> 
> Here's the video showing how I personally brush. Hopefully it will be helpful.
> 
> How to brush a dog - YouTube


great vid thats how i brush!


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

mom24doggies said:


> This is how I learned to be gentle when brushing...I did it to myself first. When I was teaching my siblings how to brush properly, I showed them on their arm the difference between gentle/correct and rough. They learned really quickly!!
> 
> Here's the video showing how I personally brush. Hopefully it will be helpful.
> 
> How to brush a dog - YouTube


That's a good video. I'm upside down. I reach over the dog, turn the brush upside down and brush down to up. I do "flick my wrist" but because it's upside down, it's not a problem. I've got carpal tunnel and tendonitis in both wrists (fun, fun!), so the way this person brushes is painful for me. I watched myself and I'm not flicking my wrist, I'm rotating my forearm.


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

Ladyscarletthawk said:


> great vid thats how i brush!


 Lol, I hate the way my voice sounds on it...I promise I'm not a kid.  And I want to mention that normally I spray more conditioner on the coat as I brush, enough to keep it lightly moist. I forgot to keep spraying this time.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

I don't like using water or conditioner mist with brushing. I can't stand to comb until he's completely dry. When I'm drying it seems to "pull" on my wrists more. I've read over and over that it's really bad for poodle coat to dry brush.

I'm missing something when it comes to spraying the coat while brushing. I haven't seen the benefit (yet?)


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

tortoise said:


> That's a good video. I'm upside down. I reach over the dog, turn the brush upside down and brush down to up. I do "flick my wrist" but because it's upside down, it's not a problem. I've got carpal tunnel and tendonitis in both wrists (fun, fun!), so the way this person brushes is painful for me. I watched myself and I'm not flicking my wrist, I'm rotating my forearm.


 Upside down, right side up...either way, flicking the wrist is going to cause discomfort. I can understand needing to brush somewhat differently because of wrist pain though. However, (like I said before) if a newbie decides they want to brush that way, they are going to cause their dog a lot of pain. I just think that there are much better ways to brush. Honestly, I can't even imagine trying to demat a dog using that method, and most dogs I've groomed would bite\try to get away if I tried that on them. However, it seems like you've figured out what works for yourself, so good for you. 

ETA: Misting (very lightly...you should be able to barely feel the dampness) helps the brush glide through much easier. I find that much less hair breaks when the coat is moist.


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## pgr8dnlvr (Aug 7, 2011)

YAY!!! Thanks SO MUCH for the video on brushing! This must be the "line brushing" I hear so much about! I've been asking for a video like this! 

Has anyone ever used "show sheen" as their conditioning spray? Just figuring it might be a little less expensive option to the "Ice on Ice"?

Rebecca


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## Ladyscarletthawk (Dec 6, 2011)

mom24doggies said:


> Lol, I hate the way my voice sounds on it...I promise I'm not a kid.  And I want to mention that normally I spray more conditioner on the coat as I brush, enough to keep it lightly moist. I forgot to keep spraying this time.


LOL you sound fine!!! I dont spray too much.. I have a big mister and spritzt one or two times over a large area


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## Ladyscarletthawk (Dec 6, 2011)

pgr8dnlvr said:


> YAY!!! Thanks SO MUCH for the video on brushing! This must be the "line brushing" I hear so much about! I've been asking for a video like this!
> 
> Has anyone ever used "show sheen" as their conditioning spray? Just figuring it might be a little less expensive option to the "Ice on Ice"?
> 
> Rebecca


I really like miracle coat and not very expensive with a great spray nozzle!


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Does anyone use The Stuff? It's silicon-based, not oil-based.


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## Ladyscarletthawk (Dec 6, 2011)

I have.. but not while brushing. I give a few mist while they are wet before I dry. It doesnt weigh the coat down much this way and the coat dries faster. I wouldnt use it to brush with unless you do some extra diluting or it starts to get oily.. at least on my show dog it makes her coat get dirty quicker if I use too much


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## warmheartedpups (Feb 27, 2012)

Ladywolfe said:


> You aren't the only one confused. I have always line brushed my dog in the direction of hair grown, and then, after I felt no resistance, I would"fluff" the hair a bit gently, sort of straight out from the root.
> 
> Can someone please clarify this. The video looked completely different than everything I have ever read anywhere???
> 
> warmheartedpups: I am not trying to hijack. I just figured if I am not getting this, maybe you might not be, either??



TOTALLY CONFUSED:Cry:


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

warmheartedpups said:


> TOTALLY CONFUSED:Cry:


LOL, sorry we're confusing you! What exactly are you confused about?


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## warmheartedpups (Feb 27, 2012)

mom24doggies said:


> LOL, sorry we're confusing you! What exactly are you confused about?


I understand the method.....I still dont understand if I am going with the hair or against the hair? 
Example: starting at the foot...am I working up the leg or brushing up?...or starting at the toe, moving up the leg, but and brushing down...with the hair.

I dont know if that makes sense.....


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

warmheartedpups said:


> I understand the method.....I still dont understand if I am going with the hair or against the hair?
> Example: starting at the foot...am I working up the leg or brushing up?...or starting at the toe, moving up the leg, but and brushing down...with the hair.
> 
> I dont know if that makes sense.....


 Oh, I see...I personally think it's best to go with the hair growth first, (It works better for getting out tangles, IMO) then when you've worked through everything, you can fluff the hair by brushing up at the end, KWIM? So yes, you're starting at the toe, moving up the leg, but brushing down. Make more sense now? If you watch the vid I posted, you'll see that I'm brushing down, with the hair growth, then I fluff by going up. Hope that cleared things up for you!


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## FunkyPuppy (Jan 27, 2011)

Just wanted to throw out there that I use show sheen at work on working and drop coat breeds, but only use it on Bonzai's ears and topknot... it make her hair too heavy. it is my FAVORITE when she has a mat though, I can break up a coat-change demon mat in seconds with it.

one more tip: snapping and twisting your wrist BREAKS THE ENDS OF THE HAIR. Unheathy, broken ends of hair are more susceptible to matting and tangles. this has been explained in the International Poodle Grooming book and I heard it from Pam Lauritzen's mouth myself (one of the most important people to the grooming industry).

Ive been grooming for 6 years and only learned how to properly brush once I joined PF. buying LP brushes was a huge part of my education as well, since you really can't use them well if you're using the incorrectly.


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## lavillerose (Feb 16, 2011)

The video *mom24doggies* posted is, in my experience, the correct method for line or section brushing. Learning to brush correctly takes time. I have been grooming professionally for nearly 15 years and I don't believe I was really proficient and efficient at line brushing for several years, because being largely self taught, no one ever showed me how to do it properly until I met people who show Spoos and worked on their dogs. I made a lot of mistakes and learned from them!

You generally always brush with the direction of growth, down towards the floor on the legs, nose to tail on the body. Use your non-dominant hand to pull up the hair above the section you want to brush, and brush with your brushing hand downward. Line brushing is ALWAYS a two-handed operation! When you hold up a section with one hand and brush the part beneath with the other, you are also helping to keep the skin tight against the muscle, which helps to eliminate the outward tugging of the skin which causes the dog pain if you hit a snag. Pushing harder against the skin or pulling harder outward does nothing but hurt the dog.

With a slicker, you can also hear when the section of coat is tangle free. If you are brushing tangled hair, it sounds like ripping paper with each stroke (this is more obvious when you brush a dry coat, as you are probably breaking more hair than if you use a spray. The spray helps elasticize and lubricate the hair and cut static, so tangles slip apart rather than break). Once all the tangles are gone, you'll notice that sound goes away and the brush glides smoothly through.


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## Aidan (Mar 4, 2009)

I was always taught when brushing out a dog you start from the bottom and work your way up. This works and makes a lot of sense..especially when dealing with matted dogs. It's a lot easier to de-matt the feet and work your way up the leg through the body finishing with the ears/topknot/tail. 

In years of grooming and bathing this has worked well for me. I have never caused brush-burn on a dog with one exception and I'm pretty sure that would would get brush burn if I stared at him too long. He had incredibly difficult skin/coat to work with and ended up just getting shave down because his skin could barely tolerate shampoo let alone de-matting.

Anyway..I guess everyone does it differently but that is what has worked for me!

Edit: I just went back and read all the replies. The video posted by mom24doggies is how I was always taught to brush. It looks like she starts at the feet and works her way up the dog as well.


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## CharismaticMillie (Jun 16, 2010)

Second FunkyPuppy about the wrist snap. Particularly with show coat - It's a HUGE well known no-no with show coat or anytime you are trying to grow or maintain long
coat. It will literally snap all of the ends right off. The proper way to use a slicker (or pin brush) without damaging and snapping off the ends is to brush straight down in the direction of hair growth while line brushing as others have explained.

Tortoise, is you're serious about growing show coat on your pup you're going to have to ditch the wrist flick!


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## CharismaticMillie (Jun 16, 2010)

Mom24Doggie's video does show the correct way to brush a poodle. Much gentler and more effective while also (and this is the biggie) will allow you to break the least amount of hair. This is the method that show groomers who have spent their lives grooming poodles will teach you to do.


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## CharismaticMillie (Jun 16, 2010)

tortoise said:


> Does anyone use The Stuff? It's silicon-based, not oil-based.


Silicone based products (and particularly The Stuff) are known for frying coat making it easily snapped off and are avoided by all but only the bravest for this who have show coat. For a pet I'd say go ahead. Silicone does help detangle but when the ends snap that is very very bad. Actually, oil based is the best way to demat a dog (per my show handler). I've been advised to use baby oil on mats. This will weigh down coat but wont fry it. That's more for your severe coat change mats. Ice on Ice, coat handler, IOD detangle and Crown Royale are good for everyday misting and line brushing.


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## CharismaticMillie (Jun 16, 2010)

tortoise said:


> I don't like using water or conditioner mist with brushing. I can't stand to comb until he's completely dry. When I'm drying it seems to "pull" on my wrists more. I've read over and over that it's really bad for poodle coat to dry brush.
> 
> I'm missing something when it comes to spraying the coat while brushing. I haven't seen the benefit (yet?)


Yes, it keeps the ends from snapping. Two basic rules of caring for show coat: never every brush dry and never flick wrists. This will ruin show coat. It's not so bad that you're doing it now but as your puppy grows more hair you WILL have to stop dry brushing and wrist flicking.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

CharismaticMillie said:


> Silicone based products (and particularly The Stuff) are known for frying coat making it easily snapped off and are avoided by all but only the bravest for this who have show coat. For a pet I'd say go ahead. Silicone does help detangle but when the ends snap that is very very bad. Actually, oil based is the best way to demat a dog (per my show handler). I've been advised to use baby oil on mats. This will weigh down coat but wont fry it. That's more for your severe coat change mats. Ice on Ice, coat handler, IOD detangle and Crown Royale are good for everyday misting and line brushing.


OK, thank you! I use it on pet dog's trying to salvage ears or tail, before the bath. After bathing it really increases the drying time a lot, so I quit using it.

I have the poodle grooming book and it talks about using oil-free grooming spray but doesn't list any brands or resources. I've also read that you should never use anything conditioning or oil based on poodles, not even creme rinse.... but I've read just as many times to use heavy oil conditioning, like pantene straight-up.

I'm guessing the deciding difference is coat texture? Or is it handler preference?


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## CharismaticMillie (Jun 16, 2010)

Preference and individual coat go into that. It is not at all uncommon to use oil based sprays to prevent matting during and after coat change. And only for maintenance baths. You do have to use a strong detergent shampoo or clarifying shampoo to cut the oil for a show shampoo. You wouldn't want to use oil based for clients.

Using oil based sprays and cream conditioners is called putting a dog in light oil. Same for heavy oil based cream conditioners. Now, this will weigh the coat down and isn't ideal to use any if these products unless you need to. If your not having matting, you would stick with the regular conditioning sprays (Crown Royal, IOD, Coat Handler, CC Ice on Ice, etc)


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## 3dogs (Nov 3, 2010)

Tortoise- I think it really depends on the coat type of the Poodle. I would say in my Pet grooming I use Conditioner on all my Poodles. My own Poodles I do use Conditioner. My Spoo has a coat that uses lots of conditioner. All my judges say to use conditioner, conditioner, conditioner on his particular coat. My OT/M Poo I use a light conditioner on but don't use the same volume as my Spoo. It really is a case to case basis & if unsure then if you can attend a Pro Groomer show & take your Poodle with you, or find a "show" breeder that is willing to help & they will know if your Poodle needs lots of conditioner, light conditioner or no conditioner.


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## Bev's dog (Jan 19, 2012)

Reading through this and watching the video was helpful for me as well, with Wiley who dislikes brushing. Thank you everyone! :adore:


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## Ladyscarletthawk (Dec 6, 2011)

CharismaticMillie said:


> Preference and individual coat go into that. It is not at all uncommon to use oil based sprays to prevent matting during and after coat change. And only for maintenance baths. You do have to use a strong detergent shampoo or clarifying shampoo to cut the oil for a show shampoo. You wouldn't want to use oil based for clients.
> 
> Using oil based sprays and cream conditioners is called putting a dog in light oil. Same for heavy oil based cream conditioners. Now, this will weigh the coat down and isn't ideal to use any if these products unless you need to. If your not having matting, you would stick with the regular conditioning sprays (Crown Royal, IOD, Coat Handler, CC Ice on Ice, etc)


Would Crisp Coat be considered clarifying?

Also if Im maintaining show coat do you use Crown royal as a leave in after the bath or also during maintanance brushing.. I stopped using CR as maint spray as she ot dirty quicker and seemed like it acted like hairspray and was losing more coat than I was comfortable with. I ended up not using any conditioner, and mist her coat with water(I use Crisp coat as a maint shampoo). 

Now Im battling with static *sigh* so I may need some conditioner.. Her coat isnt as harsh as it could be either, so its easier to break coat.


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## flyingpoodle (Feb 5, 2012)

*How fiber nuts do it*



tortoise said:


> Perfect timing.  I just made this video today to show how to use the brush you have.
> 
> Maintaining Your Dog's Hair at Home - YouTube
> 
> There are tons of choices for style - just do whatever you like! Hair grows fast, so you can try many styles.  He'll need professional grooming every 6 - 8 weeks.


To all those horrified at the flick method- As a wool spinner and poodle owner, this is a great method to tease apart locks that are just beginning to mat just at the tips. For sheep wool you take locks that are shorn off the sheep already and flick at them with a flick carder (gosh, isn't it handy that you can substitute a slicker brush if you're like me and lent out your flick carder but have an extra slicker brush!). The bent prongs ideally release the hair before the hair/wool breaks, and if it's still matted, flick again. 

It only works on the outer bits of matted poodles, but if done right, is a very gentle way to freshen a well groomed poodle. I think you can manage to avoid or to scratch skin with most techniques depending on how you go about it.


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