# Trouble teaching "come."



## vicky2200 (Feb 14, 2012)

Weegee is 11.5 months old. He is very smart but very stubborn. He knows the command "come" but will not come unless he feels like it. Today, I decided I would try to let him off leash in the yard. I am in a town that has a lot of weekenders and it isn't very "busy" because it is monday. It went very poorly. He wouldn't come to me at all. He was running around like a nut, having a great time. It would have been fine except he left the yard. He didn't try to get away though, because he just wanted to play. I turned around and ran the other way calling him and he followed, but didn't get close enough to me so I could grab him. So I opened the car door and had my other dog hop in and he jumped right in after her. 

I have an Alaskan husky who is 3 years old and still wont come when called if she doesn't feel like it. I really don't want him to be that way too. So my question is, how can I teach him it? I've tried putting the leash on him and sitting across from him and saying come and giving him a little tug. He comes a few times, gets his treats, and then gets bored. I always reward him when he comes and I make sure that I don't always call him for bad stuff (grooming, coming inside, teeth cleaning..) I know he is still young, but I just want to make sure there isn't some other way I should try to do this. He is ATTACHED to me at the hip, so you would think he would come every time I call, but he doesn't.


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## fjm (Jun 4, 2010)

Has he been like this from a pup, or is it adolescent behaviour?

If it is a temporary break in a solid recall, I think I would go with management until he grows out of adolescence - keep him on a lead when there is any danger, avoid asking him to come when he is excited or distracted, and wait for him to grow out of this stage.

If his recall has never been good, I'd start over with a new command.


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## BigRedDog (Mar 2, 2011)

I have heard that "come" is the most important command and the most difficult command to teach a dog. Some dogs are never reliable off lead and should not be put in a situation like that for their own protection. I had an Old English Sheepdog like that..to her, "come" meant run for the hills in the opposite direction!

I can only suggest continued training with a leash. start with the six foot one and call happily to your dog while pulling them toward you. You can squat down in a play possition too. Give tons of affection and a treat. Poodles are smart and it won't take long for them to realize good things happen when they come.

Gradually work up to the 10 foot lead doing the same thing. If you want to try without the leash, do it in an enclosed space and don't chase them if they don't come, simply go back the the leash and keep working.


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## Joelly (May 8, 2012)

I agree Poodle is very smart. Charlie is very smart, he is a mix though and his terrier tendency at times show up, especially during bath time and/or feeding time. Thus, I crate him during feeding time which works so far anyway.

Anyway, "come" command is no problem for him with two exceptions. One is when I'm in the kitchen (without his bowl at hand or with his empty bowl at hand) and two is when he is in a yard doing his zoomies. Once he calms down from zooming and sitting mauling a few grass, he'll follow the "come" command. But if I'm in the kitchen, it seems at this point is hopeless to get him to come to me. However, we are going for obedience class next week on Friday and I will ask the trainer how to overcome his first exception.

Keep up with training him and he'll learn it, I'm sure. 

DH and I tried to train Charlie to play fetch with no avail, until one day he just get it, but he prefers to play fetch only with DH. Oh well, I'm on the bench for this one.


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## jcwinks (Jun 26, 2010)

*try a dog whistle*

Cleo would sit and stare at me in the yard when I would call her. I think it was a game to her...or she realized she just didn't have to. It was maddening. We bought a dog whistle and started training her in the house. I blew the whistle in her sight and held out a yummy piece of meat. Then, I moved out of her sight in the house and blew the whistle and gave her the treat. We have a fenced yard, so then we went outside and I blew the whistle in her sight and showed her the food. I gave it to her when she came. After this, I would randomly blow the whistle through the day and she came and I would treat her. I started calling her inside with the whistle and she would come enthusiastically. Then I started sometimes calling her verbally and sometimes with the whistle. When she came to my verbal command I praised her enthusiastically. I always treat her with the whistle. Now she comes very consistently. If she sees a dog outside and is in the midst of barking, she usually will come happily when I call her...but occasionally we need the whistle to bring her in. I save the whistle now for when she is barking outside. This method relieved much stress for me as it worked quickly.


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## fjm (Jun 4, 2010)

I think that's an excellent idea, jcwinks - keeping the whistle, which is ALWAYS well rewarded, for times of high distraction. I think we all tend to drop rewards too soon - dog comes, gets rewarded, we repeat a few times, then reckon the behaviour has been learned, and we don't need to reward it any more. I practice recalls on walks most days, and try to remember to put treats in my pocket at least half the time, but for a really, really strong, emergency recall I think I need a cue that is rewarded with really good stuff, every time without fail.


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## jcwinks (Jun 26, 2010)

fjm said:


> I think that's an excellent idea, jcwinks - keeping the whistle, which is ALWAYS well rewarded, for times of high distraction. I think we all tend to drop rewards too soon - dog comes, gets rewarded, we repeat a few times, then reckon the behaviour has been learned, and we don't need to reward it any more. I practice recalls on walks most days, and try to remember to put treats in my pocket at least half the time, but for a really, really strong, emergency recall I think I need a cue that is rewarded with really good stuff, every time without fail.


BTW I have never owned poodles before, but we have had many dogs. I have noticed with our poodle that she really needs praise. I think she sensed my anger and frustration. I couldn't believe she would sit and look right at me while I called her. One time I had to go get her in the rain while I had my nightgown on. I was extremely angry. This is part of the reason I wanted to stop trying to call her for awhile and we replaced that with something very positive. I think it also got the gears moving again by removing the negativity on my part.


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## lily cd re (Jul 23, 2012)

The idea of the whistle for an always rewarded come is very clever. The long leash is a good tool too. I would also restate the importance of never chasing your dog. They think it is a game.

I agree that come as a rock solid command is also really important, but would add that a really solid sit or drop is extremely important too. I think it can be as much of a lifesaver to prevent your dog from moving under unusual circumstances as having it come to you. If you can have the dog sit or drop you can calmly walk up to it when it might be unsafe to call the dog to you (e.g. when there is traffic between you and dog). I have to credit Ian Dunbar for this concept.


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## dcyk (Nov 30, 2011)

I went to basic a few months back, and "come" was taught on the leash. Now i can make Mack sit stay and walk 20 to 30 feet away and issue the command and he will rush his fastest to reach me.

This is how we did it

equipment used, 6 foot leash was just to guide and encourage him to come everytime he's called to.

Put your dog on a sit stay, leave the dog and walk the length of your leash and turn to face your dog, keep the leash loose in your left hand. DO not put any tension to the leash.

Issue the command "come" and reel in the leash. When the dog is reeled in, issue a sit command. 

Praise, treat and exercise over.

Repeat and rinse until he knows that he will have to do it each and every time.


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## vicky2200 (Feb 14, 2012)

The real problem is that he KNOWS the command and chooses to ignore it. I know he knows the command because he will come if I am holding food. I put him in a sit, a stay, and then say come. He will within the third call. Without food, he doesn't come. He is just stubborn. I will just keep working with him. I am also trying to teach him a variety of tricks that will keep his mind sharp.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Key words:



vicky2200 said:


> He knows the command "come" but will not come unless he feels like it.





vicky2200 said:


> I have an Alaskan husky who is 3 years old and still wont come when called if she doesn't feel like it.


You have to find a way to make him "feel like it". There are 5 choices and you can apply them many ways and inifinit combinations. You can choose what works for you and your dog. The fastest ways are least kind, the kindest ways take the longest. You can find a point of balance that works for you and each of your dogs.

Management - involves everything you do to control the environment and make is less rewarding. Keep them on a long leash, be "more interesting than dirt", work in fenced areas or places free of distractions, etc.

Positive reinforcement - ADD something to the enviroment to INCREASE the behavior. (come = treats)

Positive punishment - ADD something to the environment to DECREASE the behavior. (failure to come = correction)

Negative reinforcement - TAKE AWAY something from the environment to INCREASE the behavior. (failure to come = no treats, play, food, affection, etc.)

Negative punishment - TAKE AWAY something from the environment to DECREASE the behavior. (Don't try this unless you've done EVERYTHING else. You can really screw up a dog with this. However, well done it is tremendously effective. An example is, with the dog loose call him. The apply stimulation from electric collar continuousy until the dog comes. If the dog fails to come, crank up the collar and leave it going until it comes to you. Please don't use negative punishment without professional help. It is a last resort, but it can be a_ life-saving _last resort.)

OK, training theory lecture over. What I don't get is - he was trying to play with you!!!! We train the come command through play! You missed an opporrtunity to teach your dog how fun you are, but instead he learned that you're a downer control freak. (don't take that personally, canine perspective purely!)

It's more than just "feeling like it". You taught a touch cue! You taught your dogs to not respond to the word, but to collar pressure. Come training needs to be hands-off completely or it will fail when you need it. Try clicker training and start over.

Step One:






A puppy trained this way introduced to distraction for the first time:






Using movement: 






Recall is important. But don't forget it is FUN! Really, really fun!


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## dcyk (Nov 30, 2011)

"You have to find a way to make him "feel like it". There are 5 choices and you can apply them many ways and inifinit combinations. You can choose what works for you and your dog. The fastest ways are least kind, the kindest ways take the longest. You can find a point of balance that works for you and each of your dogs."

Nice quote. Anyhow, same as teaching a kid, make sure they know that come when call is important and gets them treats.

Other than using leash to reel them in, if they react without the need of the slight tug, then don't tug. Else, enforce and encourage. Praise and treat.

Come with food is good, it's still a come, after some time, remove food from time to time to make him guess if you have food or not.


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## Kloliver (Jan 17, 2012)

What is most favourite thing? Food, Games, toys, you?

For Rango, it's play. Food has never been a solid draw. When he comes ambling he gets a big goofy cuddle & a good playful scratching- the kind that makes him C-shape himself into a doggie pretzel, when he comes barreling we play his :in-love: game- BALL! 

Mix it up..... make it FUN FUN FUN

TIPS:

Don't beg, don't repeat. ONLY say come when your dog is actually moving towards you- otherwise you mistakenly label it as "Pls continue to ignore me" *LOL*

Have someone with your dog on a l-o-n-g line. Walk away. When you get to your chosen distance, use your most exciting/ fun/ goofy/ squeaky voice to call COME/ HERE/ (whatever) WHILE your neutral cohort restrains your dog. When they let go, he is more likely to bolt to you for having been held back. Gradually increase distance. Watch your body language- don't lean forwards, instead turn sideways or even turn & run AWAY if he's not as responsive as you'd like.


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## CT Girl (Nov 17, 2010)

Great video and suggestions. Whenever Swizzle comes it is party time - food, attention, toys. One thing I always do is teach him to come calling in an angry or exasperated tone too. Wait till his recall is rock solid and call him in an angry voice. The first time Swizzle came but he was wary and then huge party and great treats. In an emergency situation you might not have your normal cheerful come voice. My dog knows even if I sound very angry he will always come bounding up because coming when called is always positive.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

CT Girl said:


> Great video and suggestions. Whenever Swizzle comes it is party time - food, attention, toys. One thing I always do is teach him to come calling in an angry or exasperated tone too. Wait till his recall is rock solid and call him in an angry voice. The first time Swizzle came but he was wary and then huge party and great treats. In an emergency situation you might not have your normal cheerful come voice. My dog knows even if I sound very angry he will always come bounding up because coming when called is always positive.


Very true. I learned this the hard way, with a dog bolting for the highway. I called and no response. Quickly realized she didn't recognoze the cue when I was yelling it all freaked out. I did it again with the normal tone and she spun around and came to me. 

After that I learned that I need to teach my dogs "the angrier I sound, the bigger the reward" so that I get the obedience when I _really_ need it.


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## dcyk (Nov 30, 2011)

CT Girl said:


> Great video and suggestions. Whenever Swizzle comes it is party time - food, attention, toys. One thing I always do is teach him to come calling in an angry or exasperated tone too. Wait till his recall is rock solid and call him in an angry voice. The first time Swizzle came but he was wary and then huge party and great treats. In an emergency situation you might not have your normal cheerful come voice. My dog knows even if I sound very angry he will always come bounding up because coming when called is always positive.


Gonna try this, so far Mack's quite solid on his recall, even when he's excitedly barking at my neighbour who just came home.

Gonna try the angry tone or crazy tone


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## Rayah-QualitySPs (Aug 31, 2010)

vicky2200 said:


> Weegee is 11.5 months old. He is very smart but very stubborn. He knows the command "come" but will not come unless he feels like it.
> 
> So my question is, how can I teach him it?


Teaching a dog to come is the most *important* word to teach. Teaching and then reinforcing commands are two different things. Most times food is used to teach and then by using intermittent reinforcement we make the behaviour permanent, almost like a reflex. After your dog knows the commands you only treat using a schedule that appears random. 

In this case I would change your word for Come to something else, (here, football or any other word you do not commonly use), and retrain it as if you had not already taught it.

I happen to have puppies and have been perusing the internet for up-to-date handouts for the buyers. This website Dog Training Basics - Articles has many great articles 

`How to train your dog not to come` is fantastic and would be great for you to read. Dog Training Basics - How to Train your Dog NOT to Come


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## katbrat (May 8, 2011)

In obedience class we were taught to use "come touch." I have some Zukes training treats that Lexi is crazy about. I worked with her until she had mastered sit/stay and would do it every single time. Then I would have her sit in front of me holding treats in one hand and the other hand empty, holding both in a fist in front of me. I would open one hand, palm out and tell her "touch'' and when she did she got a treat. Then I would have her sit and I would walk away across the room telling her to stay several times. I would stop, wait a second and then use "come touch" holding my hand out to the side. I would go to another room when we did this at home just to keep things different. She would have to tap my hand with her nose and then she would get a treat out of the other hand. After we had worked on this for a while, then it was over the top praise with no treats when she did this. The trainer told us that while we were first mastering commands, we should be like a human Pez machine with very high value treats and then wean them off of treats all the time and use praise. When Lexi sees me get the Zukes off the top of the fridge, she knows we are going to work on training and she pays all sorts of attention.


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## Aroseshook (Aug 12, 2012)

I used lunch meat. It works like a charm. I do not give it unless the behavior I'm asking is a high value behavior. Like come and bed. That is the only time she gets lunch meat. I now can get Peek to 'come' t the dog park without any other reinforcement besides praise.


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## msminnamouse (Nov 4, 2010)

Part of the problem is, from what it sounds like, "come" is associated with negative things. A. You pulling him towards you on a leash via a tug. That's no fun.

B. It also means, stop having fun, pack up, we're going home.

C. It doesn't sound like he's properly motivated to perform it. He won't do it unless it's worth his while. Dogs do what they do because it works for them. Make it work for him.

All the dogs I train have solid recall. I'm not bragging. There's just some things you have to do to convince the dog that coming when you call is rewarding to THEM.

There are a bunch of games you can play. I'd advise you to google "recall games". I use many it depends what game I use on the dog. Not all dogs would find all the games reinforcing.

But for every dog, this is what I do.

DO NOT repeat the cue. That devalues it and means, come five minutes from now or whenever.

I find that the absolute best recalls are trained naked. This way, you know that the dog is properly motivated and is coming all of their own free will. 

Start in the home. Low distractions and easily controlled environment. Every time you give them their dinner, or something nice, call them to you. If you have to do something "bad" like clipping nails, brushing teeth, etc. Go to THEM. Don't tell them to come to you. Coming to you should only yield great things.

Do recall at random times when they're likely to comply. Don't wake them up out of a nap and expect them to come cheerfully running over! (Obviously.) Use very high value rewards. Their favorite tug toy or pure meat, moist, stinky cheese whatever they ADORE. Don't ask them to do it over and over for long periods of time because you're setting them up to get bored and fail. Keep it fun.

If he ignores you, don't ever call him over and then punish him. That'll mean that coming to you means punishment.

Once you're getting reliable results in the house, move to a big fenced in field. If you're lucky enough to find one. A long drive is really worth it. Like I said, naked training is best, IMO.

At random times, call him over. These are check ins. You don't want him to associate coming when you call with the end of playtime. Do it randomly and frequently so he can quickly go back to whatever he was doing before you called him. Keep it very rewarding. If he doesn't come, he's lost out on a great prize. But when he comes, he gets a super reward. He'll learn that coming is HIGHLY reinforcing and the behavior increases. Make coming to you interesting also. Change up the reward, use a funny voice, use a whistle, keep him interested and entertained. Applause and cheer him when he's coming. Get down and pat your knees. Run away from him sometimes too. Be a nut. IF he's not fearful.

Just getting him to come is good enough. THEN work on him coming and sitting so you can touch his collar. Again, this shouldn't mean you're packing up to go home. Release him. Move on to snapping and unsnapping his leash and releasing him.

When it's time to go, save an extra special reward for him. Assuming he doesn't have resource guarding issues, give him a nice chew at this point that he can carry and work on in the car. Trade the negative of leaving the fun place with the positive of an extra special chew he can divert his attention to.

He should never lose out by coming to you.

If you use corrections with him, at any other time, I would try to learn how to train without them. It CAN be done and with very good results. Of course many people feel this topic is highly controversial but I'm not here to argue. It's simply my advice. I don't use corrections on any of the dogs I work with, even the ones with severe behavior issues you find in rescue dogs, and I've never needed them. In fact, I've never had such good results as I've had since I've stopped using them many years ago. It doesn't, however, mean that I'm permissive of inappropriate behavior.


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