# Nothing in Life is Free



## marbury (May 1, 2013)

IMO, it's an exceptional all-around attitude to keep in mind when dealing with any dog. I don't have a full-blooded poodle (yet!) but I do have a whole pack of German Shepherds. They're strong-headed dogs with a lot of power and personal opinions, and that can go south fast in the wrong hands. NILIF has never been something I had to learn to do and I actually didn't know it was a 'thing' until a few years ago. It's just the way I've always raised my dogs and I always get praise for how well behaved and obedient my dogs are, even those without formal training.

Don't approach it as a 'step by step' process, just metabolize the concepts and restructure your relationship with your dog in a fundamental way. This isn't a 'diet', it's a lifestyle change. You can't do NILIF for a week and expect a lifetime of good behavior. It's not hard to do (it actually is very, very natural once you understand the psychology behind it) and your relationship with your dog will get so much deeper than you can ever imagine. Don't forget to give respect as you ask for it in return.


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## Tiny Poodles (Jun 20, 2013)

Love the method, and it is something that I have always done from day one just by instinct. It is especially effective for alpha, headstrong type dogs - with soft submissive type dogs, like my Teaka, not so much - with her, it was a challenge to even convince her that it was ok to take a treat - and not to drop it if her sister wanted it!


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## msminnamouse (Nov 4, 2010)

I prefer Dr. Karen Overall's Protocol for Deference instead. Rank reduction tactics (NILIF) is kind of ridiculous and also harsh to me. The dog isn't seeking to socially climb, merely to do what pays off for them. To do what works. People really need to stop ascribing such outdated and misapplied dominance ideas to dogs. They really don't share the obsession some humans seem to have with status.

Dr. Overall's program allows the dog to learn deference as well as allowing you to retain the trusting and nurturing relationship one would usually hope to have with a beloved pet. It's earning life rewards but in a kind and fun way. 

http://www.deerrunanimalhospital.co.../Protocol_for_deference_2012_Overall_text.pdf

You might also consider participating in a dog sport with him. It'll help him to learn to work WITH you as a team rather than oppose you.


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## Poodlebeguiled (May 27, 2013)

Yeah, when that NILIF first "came out," I was all over it. But have since found that it is way over done. I usually say, "some things in life are free, some aren't." Basically, it's simple. Reward what you like, what you want to see repeated. Don't reward (or let the dog be rewarded all by himself) behaviors you don't like and would rather see go away. lol. It is SOOOOOOO not about the dog turning into a fascist. They have no concept of themselves in some kind of rank on the social ladder. That is all a bunch of nonsense that humans have made up. Seriously, even the people who started this silly business about wolves and pack theory admit that they were wrong about wolves being so rigid in their pack structure, not to mention domestic dogs. Wolves are a family and dogs and us are a family. So, naturally, by default we're the "parents." And parents teach their kids stuff. Two years olds (the mental equivalent of a dog basically) don't think about trying to take over the household and climb the ranks so they can pay the bills since that's what the parents do. They just misbehave and so do dogs when they still have things to learn.

There are all kinds of rewards. In puppy Matisse's handling class for conformation, sometimes he'd love to go visit with a near by dog...I mean, in the worst way. I've been working on attention on me when asked and I will ask my "neighbor" if I can use his dog to let Matisse play with or sniff for a minute after I ask Matisse to wait and look at me or do something else first...just for a sec, then he gets to go wiggle around with the other pup. That _IS_ his reward because that's what he wanted the most, not food that time, not a toy....but to visit with that dog. So, self restraint for a moment, a little poise, starting to learn to be a "gentleman" earns him a little time with the other pup,


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## Tiny Poodles (Jun 20, 2013)

I think it is a little rigid and unrealistic to "follow a program" with any living creature - each philosophy has good ideas from which a savvy owner can pick and choose depending upon the situation and who their dog is.
NILIF is however a great, easy to follow starting point for somebody who has a dog who is running amuck, doing a thousand things that they do not want.


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## marbury (May 1, 2013)

The important thing about the NILIF concept that I apply to _my own dogs_ is that I am the giver of all things awesome and in order to get it they must offer me a behavior I appreciate.
For example, all the dogs wait to eat. Their bowls go down and we all have to do something for it. Give a paw, lay down, 'touch' a target, roll over, speak, spin, whathaveyou. I ask for a different behavior every time and every dog gets a different cue. Once they perform we all wait and 'watch me' until they get the 'Take it!' cue and they can eat.
The same applies before going out the back door to run in the yard, before getting in or out of the car, before coming out of the crate, and in training situations before a toy or reward is thrown to celebrate.
There is no 'punishment' in the sense of a correction if the behavior is not offered, we all just wait until I get what I'm looking for and then have our party.

I'll have to go back and really look at what NILIF means these days. I was under the impression that it meant, literally, 'nothing in life is free' and that the dog should offer a controlled gesture in order for him to receive a positive experience (food, treat, toy, play, praise etc). I didn't realize it carried a connotation about 'climbing social ladders' or that oldschool 'striving for dominance', and for that misrepresentation I apologize.


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## lily cd re (Jul 23, 2012)

We do a softened version of NILIF. Most of the time rewards of food are only for offered or requested and promptly done behaviors like sits, downs etc. I also use food rewards for good performance of obedience and other performance behaviors when they are being learned. Life rewards for behaviors the dog already understands and does well in training. I also use food rewards at the end of trial runs to pay for a job well done. Life rewards like attention and petting are much more likely to be "free" but only when there is a general state of calmness.


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## Poodlebeguiled (May 27, 2013)

PLENTY IN LIFE IS FREE - AN ALTERNATIVE TO RANK-BASED TRAINING MODELS <b>DVD</b> - Basic Dog Training - Dogwise.com


sample video

Video Clip

I love this. Want. On Xmas list. I've had this gut feeling for some time now and finally I see someone who is of my sentiments.

I have been conscious of NILIF but never very extreme with it...only when I was trying to reward a certain behavior. But when I'm slicing up a ham and my dogs are all standing around me watching me, I bend over and give them a tid bit. I don't ask for some behavior in particular. Now, if Jose` (he's really ocd about food) would start jumping or whining, he'd have to wait until he stopped and I'd give the others their treat first. That way, that behavior will cool down. But all day long, I give my dogs good things, love and affection, attention, even if they're not performing anything at all. So, that's how I re-organized my thinking from nilif to some things are, sometimes not. But I totally love this little video clip. She's great. imo, *disclaimer* not to say that anyone else here is wrong.


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## marbury (May 1, 2013)

Poodlebeguiled said:


> when I'm slicing up a ham and my dogs are all standing around me watching me, I bend over and give them a tid bit. I don't ask for some behavior in particular. Now, if Jose` (he's really ocd about food) would start jumping or whining, he'd have to wait until he stopped and I'd give the others their treat first. That way, that behavior will cool down. But all day long, I give my dogs good things, love and affection, attention, even if they're not performing anything at all. So, that's how I re-organized my thinking from nilif to some things are, sometimes not.


Believe it or not, we're actually agreeing. Being calm is a behavior that I 'ask' for. No cues, no click-and-treat, nothing... they are just conditioned through repetition of rewarding only the behavior that is desirable to be calm and polite. You said the same thing is true in your house; your dogs are 'required' to stop acting up before they get their reward (in this case, delicious ham)! We're just using different language to describe the same thing.


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## Poodlebeguiled (May 27, 2013)

marbury said:


> Believe it or not, we're actually agreeing. Being calm is a behavior that I 'ask' for. No cues, no click-and-treat, nothing... they are just conditioned through repetition of rewarding only the behavior that is desirable to be calm and polite. You said the same thing is true in your house; your dogs are 'required' to stop acting up before they get their reward (in this case, delicious ham)! We're just using different language to describe the same thing.


Yeah, it all boils down to a very simple concept. I reward what I like and don't reward (prevent, distract, give an alternative and reinforce for doing that alternative) what I don't like. With very few things, I'll interrupt with a "hey!" or some such vocalization... like if it's an emergency that needs to be managed right then, not as a regular training tool. I teach most tricks, obedience and other skills by way of marking/reinforcing. I use shaping, capturing, successive approximation. I use a clicker for many things and/or a conditioned reinforcer word. (yesss!!) I try to be conscious of offering an incompatible behavior to what they're doing if I don't like it. And reinforcing that. Sometimes I teach the behavior I don't want to eliminate it. For instance, my son's dog had a bad habit of jumping up on people. He likes to have her jump up on him and then stand there with her front legs on him. I told him, go ahead and teach her to jump up ON CUE. Don't give attention for her jumping up spontaneously. So, it became a situation where she will jump up when invited only. Or a dog that yaps too much. I like the method of teaching a dog TO "speak" and to "quiet" on cue. It shows them the distinction and lessens the unnecessary or incessant barking. Or a dog that jumps up to greet you. Teaching the dog to sit for every greeting or stand on all fours, whatever you prefer helps teach him not to jump up. He can't jump if he's sitting. (teaching a differential behavior) All these things (and more) negate the use of "no, no, no, no, no" "eh eh eh." It's all forward moving, not stop, put on the brakes, stop behaving. lol.


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## Poodlebeguiled (May 27, 2013)

Here's a good explanation of some good stuff:

*Benefits of Using Differential Reinforcement Schedules*
Differential Reinforcement Schedules in Dog Training


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## rdryan (Nov 25, 2013)

Specman said:


> Max met with the trainer again last night and she requested that we do "Nothing in Life is Free" with him. Besides being reactive he can be pushy and manipulative. Poodles being smart dogs are pretty effective in getting what they are after! He can also be whinny when he does not get what he wants.
> 
> I know that I tend to spoil him this new training program will be quite a change for him. I am curious to hear from others that have used "Nothing in Life is Free" and the changes that you saw in your poodles using this method.
> 
> ...


NILIF is something I learned 20 years ago with an Airedale that was out of control. Within three weeks of sticking to it, remarkable improvement and I have used that from day one with every other dog I have owned, rescued, fostered or boarded. 

It is a great way to establish leadership, giving your dog confidence that you are the provider of all things they need and helps to reinforce some basic commands on a constant basis. Makes life so much easier once it becomes a habit for you and the dog. 

It isn't about a pack order for me, or a way to dominate my dogs. It is a way to have them behave in a polite manner in all situations because I am consistent with what I ask of them. For example, sitting calmly while I prepare their meal. Sitting calmly before being allowed to greet people. Waiting at the door instead of bolting through an open door. It is just basic obedience training applies to every aspect of daily life. They know what to expect because I expect the same behavior for the same situation. I had no consistency with my Airedale and he knew it and it caused him confusion. Once I got consistent, he did too. 

It's similar to not giving a toddler a cookie because they are screaming for it and stamping their feet. They get the cookie when they ask politely for it.


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