# Sticky  GROOMING 101: Groomer's Q&A



## WestCoastSpoo

ooh this is a GREAT post! I was thinking it would be so fun to groom Huxley myself and he's SO patient and still that he lets me do it - I just have NO idea what I'm doing!! LOL I tried to shave him down myself which I thought would be easy enough since I wouldn't have to keep any shape or do the scissoring but my clippers weren't up for the job! (I've been reading the clipper posts and think I'm ready to invest in a good Andis). I'm also freaked out about the face (even after watching tons of youtube videos on it!) Any grooming info from the pros is VERY welcome!! Thank you thank you thank you for starting this thread


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## MamaTiff

Some other groomers can probably answer these better than me as I have zero experience with a show coat, but here goes:

DRYING:
1) When drying a poodle with a HV dryer, do you start brushing the coat while it's still wet-wet or damp or ??? 
- Pet coat poodle: I blow dry the, what I call, "heavy water" off. All the dripping water all over the dog first. So, I would say, somewhere between wet wet and damp.
- Show coat poodle: 

2) What grooming tool (brush and/or comb) do you prefer to use when drying to get the coat straight (and does this change for different coat areas and degree of dryness)?
- Pet coat poodle: On Darby I ONLY use a pin brush and comb. With the pets I groom it's my soft slicker.
- Show coat poodle:

3) Do you start drying and/or brushing a certain area of does that depend on the individual poodle and/or trim?
I always start on the hocks and rump and work my way forward, head last.

4) What is the primary difference between a HV dryer and a stand (heat) dryer? Can you get the straight, fluffy look with one or the other or do you need both? (ie., what are the pros/cons of both)
I only have a HV at my work, but it's an AMAZING dryer and as you can see in my siggy pic it gets Darby very straight and fluffy. I am saving for a stand dryer. From what I understand the main difference is the heat. A HV blows more air, the stand gives of more heat. It sets the hair straight as a culing iron would.

GROOMING: 
5) What products do you recommend to prevent razor burn on poodles with sensitive skin--worst case scenario (ie., Skin Works)? (One of my poodles doesn't get razor burn but will scratch later and give himself a rash!)
Nothing but a longer blade (10) and witch hazel

6) Do you use an anti-static spray when scissoring? Will this ruin your shears? If you have a favorite product, ie., Groomer's Choice Anti-Static Spray, please list. Jay Scruggs recommends the GC spray. 
Yes I use this 
Best Shot UltraMAX Pro Pet Finishing Spray | PetEdge.com 
but would love to try other sprays (Stazko, just have yet to try it) I also use Bark to Basics anti static spray but I don't care for it. Never heard of it ruining shears.
7) Do you tend to groom in a certain order? Do you tackle the face first or the feet, or does this once again depend on the individual poodle?
I do body first. Feet, scissor up, tail, head last.
8) How do you keep a longer/fuller topknot from falling (you know what I mean, that icky part they get down the middle after a day or two)? Any tips? 
Your guess is as good as mine! A thicker coat! LOL

9) What's the best way to get a tight line separating bracelet from upper leg in Miami trim, etc.? Do you use a clipper or shear? 
Depends on the length of the body, but 99% of the time I go back in with shears and clean up that line. I think the only time I wouldn't is if I did a super short length on the body like a 10..

10) Do you prefer snap-on combs or scissoring for the finished look? What parts of the poodle do you feel must be scissored (topknot obviously)? Is the #30 blade the best choice when using the combs? 
Scissoring! To save on time at work I usually start with snap ons then scissor finish. I only use a 30. I pretty much scissor everything. I set my legth with the snap ons.
- Favorite snap-on combs: Wahl SS!!!!! Hands down!
- Scissoring tips: comb, comb, comb! 

GROOMING TOOL MAINTENANCE: 
11) What's the best way to clean your clipper blades? I've heard the spray cleaners are bad, etc. 
I use the dip to clean my blades. In between to get the hair out I use a toothbrush and those compressed air cans that clean computers. I don't like the sprays but I use them occasionally in a pinch. The dips are very greasy.

12) How often do you sharpen your blades and shears? (After how many grooms...approximately.) 
I work part time and I rotate my tools so I go maybe every 3-5 months.


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## lavillerose

Let me see what I can answer here. One thing to keep in mind, though: Groomers are all taught different things, and some of us have had to figure this stuff out on our own! It's down to what works for you and the dog versus what is "the right way". All my advice is on pets. I am in no way a show groomer.

Drying:
1) I don't start brushing anything until the coat is nearly dry. Where this is exactly is hard to get the hang of. It looks dry to the eye, but to the touch you can still feel some dampness in the coat. No drips, no curls clumping together, everything is lifted and separated, but it's still not "bone dry".

2) I use slickers pretty exclusively, with a comb on hand to tease out mats. Again, I'm not a show groomer. But I do the vast majority of my dematting during the dry/fluff stage. HV's are a godsend for minor matting, the forced air pushes the mats apart. I don't ever hand demat more than I have to (and if it's bad enough that you can't tease it out in a few minutes before the bath or during drying, it should probably be shaved anyway). 

3) It helps to dry the shortest parts first, as they will inevitably air dry before you get to it if you do long stuff first. The more you have to mist and re-dry, the longer the process takes.

4) You can HV an entire dog. I don't have stand dryers at my shop (they're too bulky, there's no room), so HV and small fans are all I've got. As in #1, I HV nearly completely, then use a fan for diffused air while I finish with a brush. Note: You can't always get it perfectly straight this way, but you can get pretty close. Heat helps with straightening, but it's also dangerous in inexperienced hands; dogs can overheat and even get burned very easily, even if the heating element is two feet away from them. I don't use heated dryers, period.


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## lavillerose

Grooming: 
5) I have Skin Works on hand for little razor burns, it's very soothing (try it on chapped hands too!).

6) Easiest anti-static spray, standard squirt bottle full of water, and the smallest (we're talking a toothpaste-sized) squirt of your fave conditioner, and shake it up. The small amount of conditioner acts as a de-ionizer. I use Kelco Ultrasilk. It won't damage shears. Scissors need to sit in humidity for extended timeframe to even begin the slightest rusting (i.e. don't store your grooming stuff in your bathroom). The act of scissoring, even on a coat you just misted, will evaporate the water. If you wipe your shears at the end of your groom to dry them and store them in a dry place, there's nothing to worry about.

7) I usually shave the face before the bath to keep from having to blowdry it. After bath, I do nails, feet, hygiene areas. I start the body cut by roughing in the entire neck area (just so I can keep the tether tighter there, and it doesn't catch and pull on longer hair under the chin/ears), down the back and body, then legs. Head is (usually) always done last. This is to be sure you get your head in proportion to the finished body.

8) Floppy topknots, sigh. Honestly, if you don't want to use product (and you don't generally want to leave holding products like hairspray in a coat, as they can cause breakage), the best way to keep them from parting is to take them shorter than you like. Hair is heavy, the longer it is, the floppier it will be (especially on older poodles). 

9) My secrets for Miami poofs? (a) Go backwards, up from the bracelet to elbow (or hip). Depends on your blade, though. If you're using a #5F on the body, use a #3F or #4F in reverse. Blades cut slightly shorter in reverse. SS combs will cut more or less the same length in reverse. (b) Don't try to bevel the top of a bracelet like you do the bottom. Gravity will always pull the hair down in a natural rounded shape. You want to shorten the top edges of the bracelet to give it a rounded effect, but leave a little length right at the cuff-line. (c) Don't over-trim those poofs! Scissor the roundness with a light hand. It's really easily to take too much and get a "leg-warmer" effect.

10) I can scissor for days and never be satisfied. My grooms at work are probably 95% snap-on, finished with minor scissoring. I just don't have a lot of time to scissor as much as I'd like. In a time pinch, I "sculpt" with a short sharp blade, #7F to #40 depending on the look I want (think of it like carving, just with hair and a clipper). At home, grooming my own dog, I scissor a lot more. I use Wahl SS combs ALWAYS with a #30 (killed several #40s before I realized you aren't supposed to). I also have an old set of plastic Laube combs I use when more length is called for (the longest is a 2"), with a #40. 

Grooming Tool Maintenance: 
11) I clean with a toothbrush, the dip cleaners, and sometimes use the HV in a pinch to blast out stubborn hair, or to dry off the dip cleaner. Oil as directed, on the "rails".

12) How often do I sharpen... I have NO idea. When they get dull? LOL. I have multiple blades of each number, and when one gets dull, I set it in the "needs sharpening box" and call the guy when I'm down to the last one. I find I don't need to sharpen my scissors a whole lot probably only two or three times a year (granted, I did say I don't get a lot of scissoring time). We probably have the guy in around every 2 months, and that's on a professional level, 6 dogs a day, 4 days a week.

Unless you've dropped your shears or a blade (everybody does it), or one of them just isn't working quite right, home groomers shouldn't really need to sharpen much at all.


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## mom24doggies

*DRYING*:
1) When drying a poodle with a HV dryer, do you start brushing the coat while it's still wet-wet or damp or ??? 
- Pet coat poodle: I rarely if ever brush at all...I use the HV to straighten and set the coat. 
- Show coat poodle: No experience

2) What grooming tool (brush and/or comb) do you prefer to use when drying to get the coat straight (and does this change for different coat areas and degree of dryness)?
- Pet coat poodle: Like I said before, I rarely brush while drying with an HV, but if I do I use my soft slicker. Soft slicker with a stand dryer as well (which I am going to start saving up for, yay!) 
- Show coat poodle: no experience

3) Do you start drying and/or brushing a certain area of does that depend on the individual poodle and/or trim? 

I typically start at the rear and work forwards.

4) What is the primary difference between a HV dryer and a stand (heat) dryer? Can you get the straight, fluffy look with one or the other or do you need both? (ie., what are the pros/cons of both) Primary difference is that there is more heat with a stand dryer (which sets your coat better) AND you have to brush as you dry with a stand dryer. 

Pros for an HV: much faster to use, easier to deal with. With a stand dryer, you have to hold the dog, brush, AND keep adjusting your dryer as you go. With an HV, you only have to hold the dog and the dryer.  
Cons for an HV: not many in my experience, only that dogs tend to be frightened by the loud motor/air. Can also damage ear drums if you shoot air down the ear canal. 

Pros for stand dryer: straightens and sets even the curliest and dense coats. Also can help with removing matting. I've found that dogs are less inclined to fight you if you brush them as they are being dried. 

Cons for stand dryer: Harder to handle, especially if the dog isn't used to it or is very wiggly. Trying to hold, brush, and adjust your dryer takes more then two hands.  

*GROOMING*: 
5) What products do you recommend to prevent razor burn on poodles with sensitive skin--worst case scenario (ie., Skin Works)? (One of my poodles doesn't get razor burn but will scratch later and give himself a rash!)

Haven't really had this issue, although Trev will occasionally get itchy after his shave and I put Gold Bond fragrance free lotion on him, which worked great. Someone else mentioned witch hazel and I've heard good things about it. 

6) Do you use an anti-static spray when scissoring? Will this ruin your shears? If you have a favorite product, ie., Groomer's Choice Anti-Static Spray, please list. Jay Scruggs recommends the GC spray. 

Nope, I don't. But I've never heard that they will ruin your shears. 

7) Do you tend to groom in a certain order? Do you tackle the face first or the feet, or does this once again depend on the individual poodle? 

I usually tackle feet first, then move on to face, tail/sanitary, then body.

8) How do you keep a longer/fuller topknot from falling (you know what I mean, that icky part they get down the middle after a day or two)? Any tips?

CC's Thick N' Thicker volumizing mousse stuff. You work it in after the shampoo, let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes, rinse, then conditioner. (that's a must after that stuff or it makes the hair kind of difficult to brush AND I've heard it can mat the hair.) When I use it on Trev, his tk lasts pretty much until his next bath unless it gets wet. Also, blow dry the hair forward a bit. It helps some. 

9) What's the best way to get a tight line separating bracelet from upper leg in Miami trim, etc.? Do you use a clipper or shear? 

Use a short blade, like a #7 or shorter. Then comb your bracelet down, scissor around the cuff. Comb it up, scissor around the top, level with where you started your bracelet. Fluff it out, scissor around. 

10) Do you prefer snap-on combs or scissoring for the finished look? What parts of the poodle do you feel _must _be scissored (topknot obviously)? Is the #30 blade the best choice when using the combs? 

Hmmm....I prefer soc for the body, then fully scissored legs. I've tried scissoring Trev's body, his coat is so dense and the individual hairs are so thick that my scissors make divots. (I know, I need new ones!) So it's better just to take a soc to it, plus that ensures that you get the body even all over. I feel that the tail and topknot must be scissored, and if you are not taking the dog down short all over, the legs need to be scissored as well. I would say that if you are doing anything longer then a #5, leave the legs fuller and scissor them, it makes the dog look sooo much more balanced!! I personally use either a #10 or a #15 under my combs, a #30 if the dogs coat isn't meshing well w/ the !0 and 15. Soft, cottony coats tend to get clipper marks really easily and sometimes a #30 fixes it.
- Favorite snap-on combs: my metal Wahl ones...they are the best!! 
- Scissoring tips: Keep your wrist straight, (reduces strain on your arm) move only your thumb, scissor upwards whenever possible, try not to scissor across the grain of the hair. Comb comb comb!!! All the time...literally. Scissor for 10 seconds, comb, rescissor, comb, rescissor...you get the picture. And don't comb the hair down, use an "egg beating" motion and fluff the hair out straight. With some hair textures, combing up will work better, too. 

*GROOMING TOOL MAINTENANCE*: 
11) What's the best way to clean your clipper blades? I've heard the spray cleaners are bad, etc. 

Yeah, the spray cleaners are bad, although I occasionally use them as coolant on the blades that I have only one of. I use Oster's blade wash, has always worked for me. Also, an old toothbrush to clean out teeth with. Get a little bit of your blade wash, dip just the teeth of your (running) clipper blade in, let it sit for a bit, then blast out the blade with the HV dryer. OR, just dry the blade off and get off as much hair as possible. Once you are done, put a few drops of oil on them. 

12) How often do you sharpen your blades and shears? (After how many grooms...approximately.)[/QUOTE] Honestly, have no idea how many grooms I do between sharpenings. Typically, once every month or two. My scissors tend to last longer. A lot depends on your clipper and blade types. Another thing to think about is blade drives....I replace mine once every month or two, but I'm a professional groomer, my clippers take a beating no matter how hard I try to take care of them. For those of you with one or two dogs....maybe once a year? Something like that...

Well that was fun! Thanks for posting Rowan.


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## dawns

mom24doggies said:


> [
> 10) Do you prefer snap-on combs or scissoring for the finished look? What parts of the poodle do you feel _must _be scissored (topknot obviously)? Is the #30 blade the best choice when using the combs?
> QUOTE]
> 
> The only thing i can add is..I went to a Jodi Murphy seminar last weekend and she says to only use a 15 blade under the ss combs, she says it makes them much easier to use and she also said something about the 30 blade teeth getting broken off when using them under the ss combs


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## lavillerose

The main reason the SS combs can break teeth off blades is when the metal tines are knocked out of place. It can happen if you hit a snag in the coat, if they aren't quite sitting right on the blade, or if you drop or bump them, or if your blade itself is not aligned properly. Just be sure to take a look at the tines, they should all be straight and evenly spaced from each other. If, when you turn the clipper on, one of them starts to vibrate (you'll hear it as well as see it), you need to turn the clipper off asap, remove it and straighten the tine out (you can do it just by nudging them _very gently_ to the side with your finger), and re-set it on the blade.

I've used the SS combs over #30, #15, and #10, but I prefer #30. Super thick or coarse coats might work better with the other blades.


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## mom24doggies

dawns said:


> mom24doggies said:
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 10) Do you prefer snap-on combs or scissoring for the finished look? What parts of the poodle do you feel _must _be scissored (topknot obviously)? Is the #30 blade the best choice when using the combs?
> QUOTE]
> 
> The only thing i can add is..I went to a Jodi Murphy seminar last weekend and she says to only use a 15 blade under the ss combs, she says it makes them much easier to use and she also said something about the 30 blade teeth getting broken off when using them under the ss combs
> 
> 
> 
> . Different things work for different people....a lot depends on your blades and clippers too. I've never had trouble with a 10 or a 15 or a 30. I have had soc break teeth on a 40 though. I'll keep what you said in mind though!! And lavillirose has some great points about soc's!!
Click to expand...


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## BigRedDog

*Grooming Questions*

Ok let's see here...
Drying: I dry the head and chest first then work my way back. Try to get as much water off the coat as possible before I start. I don't normally use the power blowers, I have a Oster stand dryer and I get a gorgeous finished coat with that. I imagine if I was in a busy shop, I would have to at least use the HV and then switch to the stand finish dryer because of time.

My favorite tool is a flat slicker brush for drying
To prevent razor burn:clean blades, sharp blades worst case: use a #10 in the direction of the hair growth you should be OK
The trick to keeping a long full topknot up is the way the sides are scissored.
I love scissoring and will scissor as much of the coat as possible.


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## muffin

Love this thread! Can I add a question? Is there any way to keep the back of the bracelets on the back legs fluffy?


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## Rowan

muffin said:


> Love this thread! Can I add a question? Is there any way to keep the back of the bracelets on the back legs fluffy?


Hopefully the groomers will weigh in with their secrets, but I just brush them out at night with the poodle buttercomb to fluff them up. If they get wet (rain) and then curly, I spritz them with water or grooming spray and then dry them with the Raptor on low. I'm wondering if there's a product that would help keep the hair from curling? Mine stay pretty fluffy even though they sit on them a lot! 

Also, mine get bathed every 2-3 weeks while in the Miami so that keeps the bracelets pretty fluffy.


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## muffin

Thanks Rowan! It probably doesn't help that Gracie still has her flimsy puppy coat either haha  I wonder if some spray wax would work, or is that a no-no?


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## Rowan

muffin said:


> Thanks Rowan! It probably doesn't help that Gracie still has her flimsy puppy coat either haha  I wonder if some spray wax would work, or is that a no-no?


I love CC's Thick N Thicker line. That might help her coat as it provides texture. They have rinses, mousses, and sprays.  Check it out on the website, including the testimonials.


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## swismiself

I have a grooming question! While the CC and Miami cuts are pretty spectacular, I doubt I would ever have the patience to do that to my dog. We spend too much time outside running in the woods. Those crazy coats were part of what put me off from even learning about poodles years ago. Only once I realized just how versatile a dog they are did I start to consider them...and even then, that was only after I met a poodle in a kennel/puppy cut. All of the hair was about an inch, and while the face was cut shorter, it wasn't shaved. The guy who owned this poodle was practicing retrieving for some bird competition. 

Are there any threads or links talking about grooming poodles who are used for outdoor utility work...the kennel/puppy cuts that are pretty much the same length all around (with maybe the bracelets because it makes them look like they're wearing bell bottoms and I like that look)? I didn't really find what I was looking for when I searched. 

Also, I get why you shave the rear end and the face, but why the neck? Is that to prevent mats from the collar? Is it necessary if the hair is really short?

One last: when the hair is that short, do you have to blow dry the hair? If you're brushing regularly (every few days -> week), will the curlier hair mat anyway?


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## Sookster

swismiself said:


> I have a grooming question! While the CC and Miami cuts are pretty spectacular, I doubt I would ever have the patience to do that to my dog. We spend too much time outside running in the woods. Those crazy coats were part of what put me off from even learning about poodles years ago. Only once I realized just how versatile a dog they are did I start to consider them...and even then, that was only after I met a poodle in a kennel/puppy cut. All of the hair was about an inch, and while the face was cut shorter, it wasn't shaved. The guy who owned this poodle was practicing retrieving for some bird competition.
> 
> Are there any threads or links talking about grooming poodles who are used for outdoor utility work...the kennel/puppy cuts that are pretty much the same length all around (with maybe the bracelets because it makes them look like they're wearing bell bottoms and I like that look)? I didn't really find what I was looking for when I searched.
> 
> Also, I get why you shave the rear end and the face, but why the neck? Is that to prevent mats from the collar? Is it necessary if the hair is really short?
> 
> One last: when the hair is that short, do you have to blow dry the hair? If you're brushing regularly (every few days -> week), will the curlier hair mat anyway?


I'm not a professional groomer, but wanted to weigh in on some of your comments. 

The CC is rarely practical and mostly (there are exceptions) only show poodles are kept in this clip. I think you may be confused as to what the Miami is. I attached some pictures of my girl in a Miami, which is the "short all over but with bracelets" clip that you are talking about. I like this clip because it's practical, easy to maintain, but still distinctly poodley. We do lots of outdoor activities as well so it's easier to maintain than something longer like a lamb clip. 

Grooming is going to be essentially the same no matter the clip. Longer clips take more maintenance (bathtime takes longer, you spend more time combing and brushing, takes longer to dry) and also take a lot more scissory and fine-tuning than shorter clips to create but that's about it. 

Not sure I know what you mean by shaving the neck? Are you meaning the "V" underneath the chin? I leave a tiny bit of a crest on the neck but take it down pretty short because my spoo girls wear collars all the time. Collars cause matting and hair breakage, so I just prefer to keep it short. I do shave the "V" into the neck. I think that looks nicer than not and I'm not sure the real reason behind it, but there has to be some sort of distinction if you shave the face as to where that ends and the regular coat begins. I think the V looks nice, but don't suppose you have to do it if you don't want to. I don't shave the rear end any different than the rest of the body. I keep faces and feet shaved short (#40) because I like that look, and it's much cleaner. 

You don't have to blow dry if you don't mind curls. Any coat is going to take regular combing and brushing. All blow-drying does is make the hair straight. Air-drying will cause the hair to form curls as it dries. With daily brushing/combing I think you could avoid mats even without blowing the hair straight, especially with shorter clips. 

Does this help?

In these photos, Nova's body and top part of legs are with a #5, face and feet with a #10. I'll be taking her body down to a #7 in a couple weeks.


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## swismiself

Thanks so much...you were really helpful, and your dog is gorgeous! I love parti poodles.


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## afkar

My three standards are all kept in a modified kennel clip as they are farm dogs the older two of whom compete in tracking over the autumn & winter. They also spend quite a bit of time on the beach which means running in the surf even in winter. I keep mine short all over (the longest they usually get clipped is a #4 blade. I don't leave bracelets on mine as they would attract too much in the way of stuff like grass seeds or sand.
I usually only blow dry with a HV drier when they are really wet or after a bath otherwise they are towelled off. I don't worry too much about a bit of curl. I take the neck hair short too & basically leave only topknot & tails as I want low maintainance, practical coats. I also shave necks as Joey & Sky love wrestling play with each other too. Mine usually only wear collars when away from home & wear tracking harnesses when competing & training. I also shave faces & keep feet short too. 
Hope that helps with another experience of an alternate way of doing things.


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## swismiself

Do you have any photos of your dogs? Thank you so much for your thoughts on grooming!


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## afkar

Hopefully this will work to post a photo. Tia is the chocolate, Joey & Sky are the two silvers. Tia has her Tracking Dog title & will be going for her Tracking Dog eXcellent at her first trial back this season while Joey has his TDX & will be going for his T.Ch. Sky hasn't started her tracking career yet but will hopefully be starting Rally O this year as she is only a year old,


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## swismiself

You have a lovely trio!


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## afkar

Thank you. That was taken in summer when they were looking reasonably presentable- I was looking for the feral beachwashed photo to add a comparison. I am very lucky in that I have the Ninety Mile Beach very close to me where we can virtually always get some off leash no people, no other dog space for them to romp in & get thoroughly wet & sandy.


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## swismiself

afkar said:


> Thank you. That was taken in summer when they were looking reasonably presentable- I was looking for the feral beachwashed photo to add a comparison. I am very lucky in that I have the Ninety Mile Beach very close to me where we can virtually always get some off leash no people, no other dog space for them to romp in & get thoroughly wet & sandy.


That would be a great comparison


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## Bronson Bear

DRYING:
1) When drying a poodle with a HV dryer, do you start brushing the coat while it's still wet-wet or damp or ??? 
- Pet coat poodle: Depending on the length of the hair. If its less than 2 inches, I don't usually brush while I dry. If its longer, I'll start brushing when the hair is almost dry. Except for the ears or if the dog is matted. I'll brush the ears the entire time to get them very straight. And I find brushing mats out very carefully with a slicker then a comb works much better/is easier on the dog when the coat is soaking wet. (this depends on the matting, I can get some serious matts out of ears doing this, but it really depends on the matts)
- Show coat poodle: I do not do show clips. I have only done one show clip ever and that was on my friends toy poodle. Not that I refuse, its just too much upkeep for my clients/price is too high.

2) What grooming tool (brush and/or comb) do you prefer to use when drying to get the coat straight (and does this change for different coat areas and degree of dryness)?
- Pet coat poodle: slicker or pin brush and comb. Preference is more the dogs skin, more sensitive dogs I use the pin brush, Most dogs use the slicker.

3) Do you start drying and/or brushing a certain area of does that depend on the individual poodle and/or trim?
I dry the dog all over quickly to get the excess water off. Then I'll go over the dog slowly starting with the rear legs and move to the head last. But I'll usually do the ears halfway through because I am very particular about my ears being VERY straight.
Brushing, depends on the clip, if its a Miami clip I start with the bracelets. If its a pet clip, usually the tail/ears/topknot.

4) What is the primary difference between a HV dryer and a stand (heat) dryer? Can you get the straight, fluffy look with one or the other or do you need both? (ie., what are the pros/cons of both)
HV dryer blows air at about 25mph. You can dry a dog VERY fast with this dryer. But if you hold it too close to the coat it will matt the hair. This is the best dryer to straighten hair.
The Stand dryer is pretty much like a human hand dryer on a stand. It has different heat settings/speed.
We have 1 stand dryer that we only used on dogs that could not be HV dried (dogs prone to seizures from drying, dogs too scared of the HV dryer, preferred to dry puppies with stand dryer because it isn't so loud/scary)
But we have the CC Kool Dry Raptor dryers now that have so many settings we don't have any use for the stand dryer anymore. I can put it on super low and dry dogs that could never be dried before.
Yes the stand dryers have heat settings, but we use the HV so much the motor heats up and blows warm air.

GROOMING: 
5) What products do you recommend to prevent razor burn on poodles with sensitive skin--worst case scenario (ie., Skin Works)? (One of my poodles doesn't get razor burn but will scratch later and give himself a rash!)
We do not use anything for razor burns. if the dogs skin is too sensitive we wont use a 10 or shorter, or wont do the sanitary area at all.

6) Do you use an anti-static spray when scissoring? Will this ruin your shears? If you have a favorite product, ie., Groomer's Choice Anti-Static Spray, please list. Jay Scruggs recommends the GC spray. 
Also use Best Shot UltraMAX Pro. Have never had any issues with my shears with any spray.

7) Do you tend to groom in a certain order? Do you tackle the face first or the feet, or does this once again depend on the individual poodle?
On a pet clip usually start with the back/body, then legs, sanitary, then tail, then feet, face/neck, ears, topknot.
If the dogs is bad for its feet or face, I'll do it last. Sometimes I'll get bored and switch it up.
On a fancier clip (lamb clip or miami) I'll save whatever needs the most scissor work for last
8) How do you keep a longer/fuller topknot from falling (you know what I mean, that icky part they get down the middle after a day or two)? Any tips? 
I dunno, if this is an issue I usually take the topknot shorter

9) What's the best way to get a tight line separating bracelet from upper leg in Miami trim, etc.? Do you use a clipper or shear? 
Start with the clipper and then use shears

10) Do you prefer snap-on combs or scissoring for the finished look? What parts of the poodle do you feel must be scissored (topknot obviously)? Is the #30 blade the best choice when using the combs? 
Prefer scissoring, always. There are lazy groomers at my shop who use combs for everything and I feel its a really lazy shortcut that will never look as good as a good scissor.
- Favorite snap-on combs: Wahl Stainless Steel, I find myself using a #15 with them all the time. 
- Scissoring tips: Don't really know how to give tips on line, unless I posted photos. Like MamaTiff said, COMB! Comb the dog completely all over before you even start scissoring. If you cant pick up a comb and brush it perfectly through a random spot you are not done combing!

GROOMING TOOL MAINTENANCE: 
11) What's the best way to clean your clipper blades? I've heard the spray cleaners are bad, etc. 
I spray on a disinfectant between dogs and wipe them down, or use toothbrush to get the hair out. 
But to do a full cleaning use Oster Blade Wash that you dip the blades in. 
Always oil your blades, ALWAYS!

12) How often do you sharpen your blades and shears? (After how many grooms...approximately.) 
About once a month, to every 2 months. I have a lot of blades that I rotate around. If I have to do a lot of coat stripping (preshaving matted dogs) they get dull much faster.

As for examples of different cuts to do swismiself:
This book
Poodle Clipping and Grooming: The International Reference
IS AMAZING. 
This website has a lot of examples (go to the menu on the left and pick A-D or E-J etc)
POODLE HAIR CUTS

Asking about shaving the V neck, you shave the neck in almost all breed clips. Terriers, poodle, cockers etc
You don't HAVE to shave it.


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## Ladywolfe

*New Question*

As this was made a sticky, I thought I would pose a different question.

I totally admire groomers for their ingenius methods of handling dogs, in other words "how to hold" for different areas. I had one session with a groomer, and I really didn't retain a whole lot of what I did learn, but I found that working on my toy poodle and holding her backwards; neck under arm, etc, was a HUGE help. 

So, is there a source or anything for finding out how to hold dogs to cut/trim different areas? Specifically, again, the FFT with poodles (standards) who are not totally compliant. Feet, or course, are probably the biggest issue for me.

For a lot of groomers, all of this may seem like common sense. But, believe me, when I am grooming at home, I can get in some of the most awkward positions, etc. For example, my boy did not want to let me shave his neck, until I put him on the floor and straddled him and then, all was fine with no problems at all.


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## fluffy buffy

*Clippers and Blades*

Hi, I have the nearly six month old standard poodle{ white ].
My Daughter is the one who usually groomed my previous dog. . She is now in Australia so I must try myself.
I need to purchase clippers and blade and would like to know what to buy , can anyone help please.

Fluffy Buffy


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## CurlyTop

WestCoastSpoo said:


> ooh this is a GREAT post! I was thinking it would be so fun to groom Huxley myself and he's SO patient and still that he lets me do it - I just have NO idea what I'm doing!! LOL I tried to shave him down myself which I thought would be easy enough since I wouldn't have to keep any shape or do the scissoring but my clippers weren't up for the job! (I've been reading the clipper posts and think I'm ready to invest in a good Andis). I'm also freaked out about the face (even after watching tons of youtube videos on it!) Any grooming info from the pros is VERY welcome!! Thank you thank you thank you for starting this thread


EXACTLY!!! In the same boat. It seems very intimidating, especially with no training and not knowing where to start or what tools you actually need. I'm so jealous of all you groomer and groomer-types whose dogs ALWASY look freshly groomed, as opposed to ours who always looked 2 weeks over due for a trim ;-) PLEASE keep the information and tips on DIY-poodle grooming coming. Hmmmm ... wonder if there's a good book or video with that title.


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## -Lilith-

CurlyTop said:


> EXACTLY!!! In the same boat. It seems very intimidating, especially with no training and not knowing where to start or what tools you actually need. I'm so jealous of all you groomer and groomer-types whose dogs ALWASY look freshly groomed, as opposed to ours who always looked 2 weeks over due for a trim ;-) PLEASE keep the information and tips on DIY-poodle grooming coming. Hmmmm ... wonder if there's a good book or video with that title.


I bathe my poodle once a week and brush her out every other day. Use a greyhound comb. 


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## Coleen

Just wondering if an air compressor would work the same way as the HV dryer. It really just blows the water off the dog right? I don't know if you can adjust the compressor so it won't injury the dog, but just wondering because I may have to start grooming my own poodles and would rather not spend the money on an HV if I don't have to.


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## Specman

I think that the problem with most air compressors is that the air is not clean enough. There is oil in the compressor that will get transferred to the dog.


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## Coleen

Oh okay, I didn't know it had oil in it. Just confirmed with hubby. Thanks


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## Cosmogirl

Are snap on combs necessary? I am going to try to groom my dogs at home finally. I have been reading, watching videos, etc; I haven't seen them being used..please advise before I end up down the wrong path. I have ordered a 2speed clipper with a 4&7 blade, straight, curved, and thinning shears, little nose ones. Any advice before next week would be appreciated


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## Pluto

Cosmogirl said:


> Are snap on combs necessary? I am going to try to groom my dogs at home finally. I have been reading, watching videos, etc; I haven't seen them being used..please advise before I end up down the wrong path. I have ordered a 2speed clipper with a 4&7 blade, straight, curved, and thinning shears, little nose ones. Any advice before next week would be appreciated



I think it depends on what you want to do. I don't use combs. I have done a miami/bikini on my girl and just shaved her body all over with a 4, did her feet with a 30 and her face and tail with a 10, then shaped the had/trail/leg poms with scissors (poorly). The 4 results in a pretty short cut (less then 1/2 inch long), but they grow so quickly that I don't mind. The combes will give you flexability with length without having to purchase additional blades.

I think scissoring takes some time to learn, but with a well fluffed poodle coat you can buzz them pretty even. I have never used thinning chears, but found that a small pair of curved shears helped with shaping pomps on my last pup. 

Are you going to have any blades that get closer to do feet/face or are you going to leave those at a 7? Face and feet are the only thing that I keep up on a regular basis, regardless of body length, they look freshly groomed to the eye if the face and fit are trim and they have a good brushing. Plus my current spoo is white and it helps minimize tear stains to keep her face shaved.


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## fluffy buffy

*Learning to groom*

Hi , My clippers are arriving next week and I am going to try to keep my girl looking tidy.
I am not very confident, but am going to give it a good try. 
I have left pom poms on her legs and want to leave her ears long as she has such thick long hair on her ears.not sure about her top knot yet.
So this will be interesting, there is lots of good advice on this site 
Thanks


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## Cosmogirl

Help! I have 3 small guys... I am going to groom at home for the first time and have been reading feverently your posts. But I have a problem that needs to be addressed. My littlest guy is matted...my other two are ok, I brush all three the same but this one.... I have tried a mat splitter.....he ate/broke it! He has extremely curly hair. I have tried the conditioner sprays to break them down and it makes them worse. I don't have thinning shears, they are on their way. It's going to force me once more to clip him short and try once again to let him grow out because his best clip is a pants and jacket. Cause of mats cockle burrs I live in the country, I have no idea where he is finding them because I have gone out there and eliminated them....or so I thought.


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## Cosmogirl

-Lilith- said:


> I bathe my poodle once a week and brush her out every other day. Use a greyhound comb.
> 
> 
> I have never seen a greyhound comb, can you tell me where to find one and the difference between that and a standard comb please.


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## ItzaClip

Cosmogirl said:


> Help! I have 3 small guys... I am going to groom at home for the first time and have been reading feverently your posts. But I have a problem that needs to be addressed. My littlest guy is matted...my other two are ok, I brush all three the same but this one.... I have tried a mat splitter.....he ate/broke it! He has extremely curly hair. I have tried the conditioner sprays to break them down and it makes them worse. I don't have thinning shears, they are on their way. It's going to force me once more to clip him short and try once again to let him grow out because his best clip is a pants and jacket. Cause of mats cockle burrs I live in the country, I have no idea where he is finding them because I have gone out there and eliminated them....or so I thought.


when you bathe your boy, and put conditioner on him lightly go over him with slicker(the cond will help the matts/burrs to slide out) assuming he isnt beyond saving. If you have a hv it will greatly help to stretch the coat and blow some of those knotts out. i like the master equipment dryer thats a hv & stand dryer because its adjustable in air and heat and works nicely on small and afraid dogs. crown royale is absolutely the best spray i have ever used for #1 spritzing on areas as you fluff dry
#2 spray on matts and work out
#3 use a scissor spray. 

good video on grooming small poodle in lamb trim but its old school(legs are all scissored no skimming) is 

Grooming Guide - Toy Poodle Pet or Salon Trim - Pro Groomer - YouTube


----------



## snow poodle

*top knot falls flat*

Aw shucks - I came to the same conclusion and finally shortened Nigels' top knot by about an 1" this afternoon. 
Now I have to shorten his coat by an inch because he looks like I pin head. 
Even though he is a farm dog, plays with the horses and comes back covered with rose bushes and burs I keep him in my version of a Europeon T cut. His back end is scissored short with bracelettes and I admit a palm tree tail ( I am trying to talk myself into letting in grow in and having a large pouf tail but there is something about it I like - it is like a flag wagging happiness) his front half is very long with full fluffy legs a very full top knot and full ears.
of course his face, feet and bathroom bits are shaved - usually with an against the grain # 15. 

It takes some doing - he gets the full meal deal - shave, scissor, bath, nails, ears every other weekend - with a bath in between if he gets into some thing really nasty at the barn. He is brushed daily for at least a 1/2 hour with usually a full hour every 3 or 4 days. My secret is get out that dead hair before it mats. My favorite tool for pulling up the base dead hair before it mats is a narrow long tooth rake - mine is about 11/2 wide. I find the shoulder and wither areas usually need the most attention but I assume that is from wrestling with his doggy friends at the barn. 

I have caught myself looking at his breeders web site a lot recently. I think I want another but I am pretty sure If I had two they would be clipped short. This is a lot of hours and I love every minute of it, but juggling enough hours to double it is just about impossible


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## atticusmom

*New to grooming*

Hi, 

We rescued a spoo from a kill shelter and he was in bad condition with matted dirty hair, underweight, overgrown nails and filthy ears. 

We bathed him using my daughter's baby shampoo (it's all I had at the time and he smelled so bad) and cut and clipped his hair very short...he actually came out whiter than we thought..ha ha. 

But I was nervous about messing with his ears and nails so I took him in to the closet groomer and the guy was weird. "Atticus" was very nervous and the guy put the powder in his ear and the hemostat and started twisting. Atticus yelped and shook while the hair was removed. Not good right?

I'm new to this and have never taken a dog to a groomer and not sure if this is what is normal? Please can someone tell me what to look for in a good groomer and the signs of a bad one. Thanks.


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## Jamie Hein

The twist technique is a way to get the hair out. I know groomers who do it, but I don't just because I think removing smaller amounts using your fingers and ear powder is less painful than a chunk at once but maybe he thought that would be the fastest easiest way. You could request he does it that way next time. In looking for a good groomer: 
See that they are friendly to the dogs
The salon shouldn't stink unless a dog just pooped
The salon should be relatively clean
The groomer should ask you what you want done and ask if everything looks ok when you pick up
The prices should be competitive to the area.


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## hunny518

Rowan said:


> So I haven't read anyone's responses but here is my advice. Been a professional groomer for 12 years and started showing my standard poodle the beginning of this year and have learned how to groom and take care of the show coat...
> 
> *DRYING*:
> 1) When drying a poodle with a HV dryer, do you start brushing the coat while it's still wet-wet or damp or ???
> 
> - Pet coat poodle: depending on the coat lengths, I usually just use the HV and don't bother brushing until it's completely dry
> 
> - Show coat poodle: I brush only when wet and if I have to brush a dry spot I spritz it with water or a conditioning spray. I will use my comb while drying at the same time to get a straighter finish
> 
> 2) What grooming tool (brush and/or comb) do you prefer to use when drying to get the coat straight (and does this change for different coat areas and degree of dryness)?
> 
> - Pet coat poodle: I use a slicker brush and metal comb
> 
> - Show coat poodle: I use a pin brush and a metal comb. Never use a slicker on a show coat
> 
> 3) Do you start drying and/or brushing a certain area of does that depend on the individual poodle and/or trim? I dry the shortest hair first and dry the head and ears last. On the show coat I dry the bracelets and rosettes first.
> 
> 4) What is the primary difference between a HV dryer and a stand (heat) dryer? Can you get the straight, fluffy look with one or the other or do you need both? (ie., what are the pros/cons of both). I can get the straight fluffy look on both with no difference. The stand up doesn't blow air out as forcefully so on the show coat it is better becAuse less risk of damage and breakage to the coat, but honestly I rarely use the stand up on my show dog because I have never damaged her hair by using the HV on low while I brush the more delicate coat. Stand up is also really good for dogs who don't like the HV dryer around their heads. The stand up is quieter and softer so dogs tend to allow it on their heads.
> 
> *GROOMING*:
> 5) What products do you recommend to prevent razor burn on poodles with sensitive skin--worst case scenario (ie., Skin Works)? (One of my poodles doesn't get razor burn but will scratch later and give himself a rash!).
> 
> Oatmeal shampoo is generally soothing enough to reduce the risk. I usually will shave sensitive areas before the bath and then wash them in a high quality oatmeal shampoo and this usually deflects any razor burn or rashes.
> 
> 6) Do you use an anti-static spray when scissoring? Will this ruin your shears? If you have a favorite product, ie., Groomer's Choice Anti-Static Spray, please list. Jay Scruggs recommends the GC spray.
> 
> I use a fine misting water bottle and fill it with water and spritz the area I'm working on once. it takes away any static and it's so fine that the water dries within a minute
> 
> 7) Do you tend to groom in a certain order? Do you tackle the face first or the feet, or does this once again depend on the individual poodle?
> After bathe and dried. First thing I do is nails. Then feet. The sani then clean ears. Then I start at a back leg and work my way to the front doing face last. Unless I know the owner is notorious for showing up early. Then I do the face and head first that way if the owner pops in unannounced I don't have to work on a wiggly face.. Lol
> 
> 8) How do you keep a longer/fuller topknot from falling (you know what I mean, that icky part they get down the middle after a day or two)? Any tips?
> 
> I really am not sure what you mean, but I band my poodles top knot because she is a show dog, I do this every 1-2 days.
> 
> 9) What's the best way to get a tight line separating bracelet from upper leg in Miami trim, etc.? Do you use a clipper or shear?
> I use my clippers to create the lines and then I scissor in the bracelets
> 
> 10) Do you prefer snap-on combs or scissoring for the finished look? What parts of the poodle do you feel _must _be scissored (topknot obviously)? Is the #30 blade the best choice when using the combs?
> 
> - Favorite snap-on combs: I don't use combs
> - Scissoring tips: I always scissor finish everything. I feel the snap on combs are an extra step that take more time. I know scissoring is a talent that not everyone will always accomplish, but for me scissoring is a strong point and I can scissor a full dogs coat faster then I can shave down a coat. Even when I shave a dog down, I scissor finish any sticky outies.
> 
> *GROOMING TOOL MAINTENANCE*:
> 11) What's the best way to clean your clipper blades? I've heard the spray cleaners are bad, etc.
> I use blade cleaners. I never have a problem. I have used water and dawn dish soap, but you must make sure they are 100% dry before puting them back together because blades will rust
> 
> 12) How often do you sharpen your blades and shears? (After how many grooms...approximately.)


That depends. About every couple of months. It depends on if they get dropped, how many dirty or rough coats did you have to work on, how well were the sharpened... We use to have an amazing sharpener who did such a good job that I didn't have to sharpen my shears for about 6 months or so and that was with every day use




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## Raven's Mom

I am grooming my 5 mo old Spoo myself and she is great for body and feet, but she is terrible for her face. She thrashes around and not only am I unable to do a good job I'm afraid I will hurt her. Does anyone have tips about teaching them about face shaving. I have a oster A5 clipper which is fairly noisy but she's so good about everything else I'm just a loss about her face.


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## Steffie

*Grooming 101 Groomer's Q & A*

1) When drying a poodle with a HV dryer, do you start brushing the coat while it's still wet-wet or damp or ??? 
I never brush the coat wet.I think it splits the hair, just like our won heads!I brush when the coat is nearly dry with a good Slicker.If it makes noise get rid of it.It's splitting the hair!


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## peccan

Raven's Mom said:


> I am grooming my 5 mo old Spoo myself and she is great for body and feet, but she is terrible for her face. She thrashes around and not only am I unable to do a good job I'm afraid I will hurt her. Does anyone have tips about teaching them about face shaving. I have a oster A5 clipper which is fairly noisy but she's so good about everything else I'm just a loss about her face.


One thing that helps is keeping the nose almost straight up! It's a position where it's harder for the dog to be a pest and if it wriggles, it'll likely just back down/out instead of pushing against the blade and getting nicked.


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## Steffie

Raven's Mom,I always rub their faces when I pet them.Also massage the muzzle & I take the clippers & turn them on & just rub them over the dogs body & faces before I clip.Like a practice run.Clipping the face vibrates the nose & eyes & makes them afraid,I think.It freaks me out to have my electric toothbrush vibrate my nose & eyes too,LOL


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## peccan

Raven's Mom said:


> I am grooming my 5 mo old Spoo myself and she is great for body and feet, but she is terrible for her face. She thrashes around and not only am I unable to do a good job I'm afraid I will hurt her. Does anyone have tips about teaching them about face shaving. I have a oster A5 clipper which is fairly noisy but she's so good about everything else I'm just a loss about her face.


Another thing is to do a lot of practise when you don't have to worry about a clean face. Key is SHORT sessions (just a touch of vibrating clipper, or a little shaving motion) to keep her hopes up and GOOD effort-payout ratio. Minimize risk as totally as you can! Start from a less sensitive area (lower neck, cheeks), hold the clipper low for maximum control, be very very patient and go for two slight shaves rather than one efficient one. Know where her vibrissal pads are. Avoid the sensitive area (whatever she likes the least) until you can trust her to not thrash about when you approach.

If process feels slow and you need to neaten her nose, you can scissor it to be neater, if moustachioed. Just go slow and very patient. If she's patient and trusting, and your scissors sharp, you'll be able to shorten the moustache down to "shaved" length! This may even help her to better trust you with other (big! noisy! vibrating!) tools near her nose. (Sulo is an example of this working.)

Unless she's traumatized, she should soon figure out that facial grooming sessions usually last only for a tiny little while (longer as she improves), is pretty easy and not much of a bother (more challenging as she improves) and result in good things (praise, special treats, special toy only for this occasion, neck rubsies, roughhouse, whatever she enjoys), and be on a better mood when you take the clipper out.


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## DukeCharlie

Thanks for this great article. It is very helpful to everyone.


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## MochisSuko

I love the information on this grooming post, but I do have a question. How do you start introducing a new puppy to grooming in a way that they will grow to be very wonderful for grooming? I want to set my girl up for the success of closer to a show clipped coat but that will require a lot of patience and practice on both ends. I dont want to accidentally make her hate the thought of grooming


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## cowgirlcoley

Raven's Mom said:


> I am grooming my 5 mo old Spoo myself and she is great for body and feet, but she is terrible for her face. She thrashes around and not only am I unable to do a good job I'm afraid I will hurt her. Does anyone have tips about teaching them about face shaving. I have a oster A5 clipper which is fairly noisy but she's so good about everything else I'm just a loss about her face.




I think most people know this, but worth pointing out- I make sure to start with a fresh cold-to-the-touch blade for faces, sensitive bits and as much as possible the feet. If the blade is slightly warm or hot, my guy gets squirrelly. And the hot blades can burn the skin. If it’s too hot to touch my skin, it’s too hot to touch his. This is where owning multiples of the same blade size comes in very handy. 


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## MochisSuko

A quieter blade may actually be just what she needs though, whatever makes them the most comfortable and keeps them safe <3


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## angiefurst

So true. A shout out to the groomers.


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## Syl

What are a few scissors you recommend? 

Context:
I am a lefty and have an 8lb leggy toy poodle. I have smaller hands. 

I don't want to spend a ton of money, but I want something that I can sharpen. We've been bathing and clipping him ourselves for a year without any scissors at all, and I want to budget in a pair of straight and curved scissors for his topknot etc.

Thanks!! :bathbaby:


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## lily cd re

Look at the house brand shears at PetEdge.


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## Eclipse

As in many things, with scissors you will get what you pay for. I have several very high end shears (Chris Christensen) which cost hundreds of dollars each that I use for finish scissoring only and only on clean, blown out coat. This way they keep their edge much longer. Another caveat, I would hesitate to buy any scissors without trying them in your hand for weight/feel. While you can adjust tension on most shears, you still need to be comfortable with how they feel in your hand when you are scissoring. Are there any dog shows near you where there might be vendors who have scissors you could try? 

If not, try looking at Dubl Duck Shears. A number of online pet sites sell them. They have several different quality grades. I have Standards but most people use similar size shears to scissor all varieties. That being said, you can get 6.5, 7.5, 8 inch, etc. shears in straight and in some curved. I use the Dubl Duck 88B 8.25 shears on my Standards for roughing and some basic finish scissoring. They are workhorse shears, I have several of them and they all have been sharpened many times over the years (make sure you use a sharpener familiar with grooming shears so they don't overgrind and decrease the life of your shears). I use Whitmans, they do an excellent job. I have left shears (and blades) for them when they have been a vendor at dog shows I was at, but you can mail your shears to them as well.


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## Streetcar

Eclipse, is this the Whitmans you use? I have been wondering whom I could contact, since some sharpeners will only serve professional groomers and handlers.
https://whitmans.biz/
Thanks!
Also, to the OP, Groomer's Choice has shears and they are very nice to deal with. Their house shampoos and conditioners are very good (Coat Handler). www.groomerschoice.com


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## EVpoodle

How are you supposed to properly hold your grooming scissors when hard scissoring a standard poodle?

Thanks.


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## Vee

High Velocity dryer blast the excess water from the coat using no heat but fast (high Velocity) air. Stand dryers or finishing dryers uses lower pressure heated air and they are used after a HV dryer to fluff dry the coat so it is as straight as possible. 

There are combination dryer which is a hybrid of the both where you get change the velocity and heat also replace the hose for a pipe.


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## PeggyTheParti

Vee said:


> High Velocity dryer blast the excess water from the coat using no heat but fast (high Velocity) air. Stand dryers or finishing dryers uses lower pressure heated air and they are used after a HV dryer to fluff dry the coat so it is as straight as possible.
> 
> There are combination dryer which is a hybrid of the both where you get change the velocity and heat also replace the hose for a pipe.


That's a bot you're so kindly replying to  Just copying and pasting old comments all over the place, resurrecting old posts. It's really annoying.


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## Vee

PeggyTheParti said:


> That's a bot you're so kindly replying to  Just copying and pasting old comments all over the place, resurrecting old posts. It's really annoying.


? Well that's new to me ??‍♀ what a waste of time


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## PeggyTheParti

Vee said:


> ? Well that's new to me ??‍♀ what a waste of time


I know. It's all over the forum today. Such a stupid thing to have to deal with when bringing back the old introduction rule would entirely eliminate it.


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## Vita

Peggy, thanks for identifying the bot. Spam is easy to recognize, but bots are sneaky and harder to spot unless you read an entire thread. I just don't understand the concept or purpose. Anyway, bot is banned.


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## PeggyTheParti

Vita said:


> Peggy, thanks for identifying the bot. Spam is easy to recognize, but bots are sneaky and harder to spot unless you read an entire thread. I just don't understand the concept or purpose. Anyway, bot is banned.


I don't understand either. So bizarre. Can only assume the intentions are nefarious, so thank you for ridding us of it.


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## Mark

Hi. I have never had to clip/trim my poodle, but due to the Coronavirus our salon has been closed since April 6th. She always went for a full treatment spa day, Scissor cut, enzyme bath, foot pack, silk foam pack, the works every three weeks so I left everything to the professionals as far as that goes. Now, with that option unavailable, I have been doing the basics myself. I bought a table-top hands free Duz hands free premium dryer at a dog show for drying when she got wet in sudden rain showers. It has multiple temp settings and wind speeds, but seems to take forever to dry.
Here's my question. Has anyone splurged for a free standing HV professional dryer for the occasional grooming session? Is it faster and better for the coat? 
Is there a difference between the free-standing and the more economical canister type? 
Is there one brand that is better than another?
I would appreciate any insight.
Thank you.


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## Rose n Poos

Hi

Sorry your post has been missed. This is a Sticky Thread more dedicated to How To's.

If you post your question again below the Sticky section in the regular Grooming section I'm sure you'll get responses. 

An alternative is to use Advanced Search with keyword "dryer" and limit your search to the Grooming forum you'll find posts related to your questions.


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## Mark

Rose n Poos said:


> Hi
> 
> Sorry your post has been missed. This is a Sticky Thread more dedicated to How To's.
> 
> If you post your question again below the Sticky section in the regular Grooming section I'm sure you'll get responses.
> 
> An alternative is to use Advanced Search with keyword "dryer" and limit your search to the Grooming forum you'll find posts related to your questions.


Thank you for the advice. I hate to ask but could you please explain where the sticky section to me?


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## Rose n Poos

Mark said:


> Thank you for the advice. I hate to ask but could you please explain where the sticky section to me?



No worries . 

Sticky Threads are pinned by the Mods or Admins above the regular posting section. Sticky Thread section is noted by the lighter blue bracket in the screenshot. 

Select "Start Discussion", circled in the screenshot, and you'll be able to start your thread which will appear below, noted by the darker blue bracket. 

Copy/Paste is fine, to save you the trouble of retyping. Your thread will require a title, fyi.


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