# Help with Training Ideas...



## pgr8dnlvr (Aug 7, 2011)

Hi all, so I'd like to move to the next step in my training but am not too sure what to tackle. 

So far we have sits, down, and come. 

I need to work on length of sits. What is the best way to do this? I am trying to use clicker training so ideas with how to train longer sits perhaps using a clicker would be usefull?

What is the best way to begin working on stays? (I realize this is ALMOST the same question as above)

I would like to see if I can teach Lucy to retrieve toys. So far she will run out and pick up a thrown stuffy, but usually she just makes it about half way back before laying down and playing with it. What's the best way to start getting a full retrieve? A long lead?

Rebecca


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## fjm (Jun 4, 2010)

I've found rewarding in position is the easiest way of teaching longer sit/stays and down/stays. It's important to use a different word for Stay (Stay in that position till I come back to you and tell you to move) and Wait (Stay there until I call you). You need to work on each of the 3 Ds - Distance, Duration and Distraction separately. To take the example of the Sit/Stay, you might start by training Distance - you ask the dog to sit and stay, and move away a step or two, then immediately come back and reward. Gradually you increase the distance, until you can even go out of the room, but come back immediately. Then you work on Duration - you stay close, but ask the dog to hold the position for gradually longer periods. Only when that is thoroughly understood do you begin to combine the two - longer stays while you are further away. And then you go right back to the beginning when you go out into the big, wide, distracting world!

The best book I have found for describing this whole process in detail is Jean Donaldson's "Train your dog like a Pro".

I finally taught Sophy to retrieve (after a fashion!) by a bit of reverse thinking - start by rewarding the dog for putting the toy in your hand. Then reward her for picking the toy up from the floor between you and putting it in your hand. Then drop it a bit further away ... and a bit further ... until you are throwing it right across the room. Although Sophy still can't really see the point - it's not alive, so is not much fun to chase, and if I want it so much why do I promptly throw it away again? She does deign to play fetch for 10 minutes after supper, as long as I dig out the right toy, though!


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## roulette (Feb 18, 2011)

Once you teach "come", you can use it to teach her to fetch. I ran across this video, seemed like a super fun way to reinforce recall..even kids could play!


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## Quossum (Mar 18, 2011)

Duration is a very important aspect of Agility training, with start-line stays, stopped contacts, and the table. Keep in mind, I am speaking from a competitor's perspective, so all my training has that goal in mind.

I train that the command, when cued, intrinsically includes duration. In other words, when I say "Sit," that command *means* "Sit until you are released." The other "control positions" are the same: Sit, Down, Stand, and contact behavior. 

Therefore, since the release is necessary to almost everything else, the release is one of the first things I train. This is done through Crate Games. Then, once I start getting other behaviors, like Sit, I first reward rapid-fire for the position, give the well-known release word and encourage movement. Eventually, I can feed not-as-much in position, and eventually the dog does realize that the command includes duration. 

I used to use "stay" vs. "wait" in the manner fjm describes, but for my purposes, I prefer the other way now. The "drawback" is that you really must be diligent about using the release after ANY time you command a control position. If you get lax and sometimes release and sometimes just let the dog eventually get up, you will confuse the dog.

The retrieve has many tricks, too, but I'm out of time now--gotta go to Agility class! Maybe later!

--Q


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Teaching stay with the clicker is really easy. 

The click or words "yes" or "free" means the behavior is over.
The command "sit" means "sit ans stay until I say otherwise".

For every behavior, use a release to tell your dog it is done. This is either the clicker/yes, another command, or a dismissal command - I use "free".


Now you're ready for adding stay. Ask your dog to sit, but don't click when your dog sits. Have your dog sit and wait 1 second, then click. Repeat 3x. Then wait 2 seconds after the sit, repeat 3x. When you get to 5 seconds, start a variable duration schedule.

When you get to 5 seconds you can start introducing distance.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

For retrieve, I think you need to play tug games. Your dog has more fun chewing on the toy than playing with you! Tug makes you the interesting thing, and it's IMO the place to start for retrieve training.


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## JE-UK (Mar 10, 2010)

If you are 100% diligent about releases, then I'd use the approach others have mentioned, i.e. sit means sit until I release you.

I'm not. I'm sloppy :smile:. Luckily, my dog is forgiving. I use specific stay (stay there until I come back to you) and wait (wait until I call you to me) cues. 

As fjm says, when working on the D's, work on one at a time. And for a young dog, a 10 second stay is a LONG time. 

Maybe work on some body-handling skills? I trained mine quite young to give his paw (good for nails & feet trims), put his chin in my palm (great for low stress leashing of tiny dogs, as you don't have to reach down on the dog from above), to jump onto a surface I point to, and to lie down at a marker (good for the grooming table).


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## fjm (Jun 4, 2010)

Good point - life skills are always useful! Settle Down is an essential in our house; Wait has been a life saver, especially Wait until released before getting out of the car or going out of the door; Up - onto stairs or a low stool - is great for leashing a tiny dog when your knees or hips or back are suffering, and can be extended to a brilliant exercise game of UP the stairs or steps, and DOWN again for a fuss and tickle. Leave It is very helpful when you drop something dangerous (or your cat brings home young rabbits on a regular basis!). Looking back, I have done more training than I realised, nearly all of it around helping us to live together happily and safely!

If you are planning on doing Agility, there are lots of good games you can play. Crate Games have already been mentioned, and you can work with a wobble board to help your dog get used to moving surfaces and get a better idea of where her hind legs are.


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