# learning about grooming



## tokipoke (Sep 3, 2011)

Spunky said:


> I have figured out I like the curly coated retriever look... which I interpret as the sporty or retriever look. What blades would get that long look? I know that the smaller the blade #, the larger the clip. I have read about people using 4, 4f & 5... no one talks much about the 3. I have a 3-3/4 blade, then #4, #5, etc. I have not used a #3 blade. Fluffyspoos clipped her poodle Vegas all over with a #3 blade. It looks really good! Here's what a #3 looks like on ears: http://www.poodleforum.com/3-poodle-pictures/20078-what-3-looks-like-ears.html - If you want a longer look, it's best to use snap-on-combs.
> 
> 
> In reading between the difference between skip toothed blade and F blades, it just says that the F blade is not good if there are mats, but I thought we were suppose to brush/comb the dog so there were not any mats before cutting in the first place? It is best to brush out the mats before the bath and drying, but pro groomers get nasty matted dogs that need to be shaved before the bath. They will have blades designated just for dirty dogs. The skip tooth blades are great to get through these tough mats. Let's say you want to shave the dog to a length of a 7 blade, so you use a 7 skip tooth blade before the bath. But you must be VERY careful with the skip tooth because the teeth are very wide and you can easily cut a dog. So most groomers don't use the skip tooth blades (although many old school groomers still use them), and just opt to shave the dog with a #10 blade all over if the mats are that nasty and pelted. I only have F blades (or FC blades = finish cut).
> ...


Hope this helps!


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Wow, tokipoke - that was awesome. I have nothing to add. (I think I'm speechless  )


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## Quossum (Mar 18, 2011)

Are you just wanting to groom your own dog, or thinking of expanding into grooming other people's dogs? If just your own, and if you like the sporty look, you can certainly get by with a couple of 15's for the short areas like the face and tail, then a 30 to use under combs of various lengths for the body depending on your preference. 

If you like the shaved foot on the poodle, you can use a 15 or 30, but like tokipoke said, you don't have to shave the feet. 

--Q


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

Thanks, tokipoke! I appreciate the long reply and amazing information! You have saved me lots of time and money! I can now stop reading about dryers and save my $100-375! Actually, I think I might get away with just 1 clipper now too. (I will still look into that more.) 

Since I do just plan on grooming my own, I now think I can really keep my purchases to a minimum! At least in the beginning, I always leave the option open to try playing around later!  I think I will add a #30f blade and guide clips to my list. I like furry feet, but a #15f might be good for the face. I do like it long, but I also might want to practice some on doing it shorter. I think it will depend on what clipper(s) I go with... powerful but heavy to do the body (can I and will I be willing to do the face with it?), or if I add a cordless for it to be easier but more expensive?

I think I need read your answers again, there was so much info, I want to make sure I did not miss something! lol. Thanks again (everyone) for the helpful info!


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## Quossum (Mar 18, 2011)

A lot of people like them, but you don't really "need" a cordless to do the face. The powerful clippers for the body will work just fine. I don't have a cordless (yet!). They can be good for touch-up work. 

--Q


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## tokipoke (Sep 3, 2011)

Technically you *could* get away with just having 2-3 #30 blades, Wahl stainless steel snap-on-combs, Andis 2-speed clipper, greyhound comb, and a slicker brush.

Those are very simple equipment. However, I am sure you would at least want a #10 blade to do the sanitary trim (shave the stomach and around genitals). I shave Leroy's sanitary with a #30 or #40. Those blades cut very close and depending on the color of the poodle (light poodles like white and cream), can cause razor burn or irritation. You have to shave very gently with a #40 around sensitive areas, and the dog must be used to it. You can use any clipper on the face, people prefer lightweight cordless once for face and feet just for the convenience. I've used my "heavy and bulky" Andis 2-speed on plenty of teacup poodle faces and feet with no problems. I guess as you groom more, you realize what you want to save time on (and improve hand ergonomics), and spend the money to do so.

The only caveat to air drying that I see is if you will be getting a poodle PUPPY. That puppy fluff is easy, soft, and cute when they are puppies, and you may change your mind and realize you LOVE the fluffiness, but all poodles go through a coat change (happens around 6-9 months, depending on the size of the dog, won't stop till they are 2 years old, and then some poodles go through several coat changes, maybe 2-3 changes). The coat change is a nightmare or an easy transition. With some poodles, people claim their dog never went through a coat change. I guess their coat is just that manageable. For most people, they end up shaving the dog completely and starting over (like I did twice). Sometimes due to coat change, mats appear just by you looking at the dog, after 3-4 hours of you brushing the hair. So air drying a dog that mats easily will be a headache. Water makes mats tighter, and couple that with towel drying - all that friction makes it worse. If you are using clipper blades like #3, #3-3/4, #4 - these will NOT clip through mats. The dog must be brushed out completely. You will have to go shorter if you don't want to brush out the mats. Let the dog dry (either air dry or blowdry), and you can clip with a #5. This will go through light matting. If it is heavy matting or pelting, you will need to use a #7 or #10 (a #10 at least on the spots that are pelted, you don't have to go over the whole body with a #10).

You may also realize you want a force dryer. Although you don't want the hair blowdried straight, it does make it easier to see the hair and see what you are working with. You can isolate mats easily and brush them out. I brush and blowdry at the same time. Or - if you don't like the forecful blowdry, and just want a gentle drying just to spot mats, you can get a stand dryer - which will be great because it allows your hands to be free. Put the stand dryer on a low setting on your dog as you spot the mats. Brush out just the matted areas. Then let your dog air dry till completely dry. You can even save the clipping for the next day, and just clip with the guide combs.

I couldn't find it last night, but here is Fluffyspoos Vegas done with a #3 all over. I love this cut and can't wait to do it on Leroy one day: http://www.poodleforum.com/3-poodle-pictures/18631-bald-beautiful.html


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

so you don't want me to save any money  lol. My son just woke up, so I will have to dig into the comments again when he takes a nap later. 

Oh, and I love the #3 clip on Vegas!! Maybe I do not need guide combs and just a #3!


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

I despise combs and use #3 (1/2") and/or #3-3/4HT (3/4")

Here are 2 more poodles shaved with a #3 and #10 for FFT. The first is a 6 month old standard and the second is a young adult toy.


Standard Poodle Modified Puppy Cut by tortoise11, on Flickr


Toy Poodle Modified Lamb Cut by tortoise11, on Flickr


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

I have only used a cutter with a guide comb (on humans) before and the thought of a just regular blade scares me. I just can not quite get my head around how it really works... My head just thinks 'razor blade' and 'puppy skin' and shutters! Think I need to google 'grooming safety tips' or something to make myself feel more comfortable. 


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Spunky said:


> I have only used a cutter with a guide comb (on humans) before and the thought of a just regular blade scares me. I just can not quite get my head around how it really works... My head just thinks 'razor blade' and 'puppy skin' and shutters! Think I need to google 'grooming safety tips' or something to make myself feel more comfortable.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PG Free


I think it is impossible to hurt a dog with the 3-3/4 blade. Andis CeramicEdge Clipper Blade Size 3 3/4FC | PetEdge.com 

This picture doesn't do its size justice. The cutter blade is 3/4" away from the dog's skin.

Grooming IS risky and injuries happen even to the best of the pros. There is a lot your can do to avoid injuries, of course. But when you're working with sharp equipment on a moving target, accidents will happen. In 8 years I've done 2 injuries requiring a total of 5 stitches between them. 1 was on a yorkie hock, the injury was actually small but the movement of the joint would have prevented proper healing. The other was an eyelid. :ahhhhh: That was very scary to me - always my worst nightmare since I got thrown into groomer when a veteran groomer cut an eyelid and skipped town to avoid paying the vet bill. My only comfort that week was a local respected veteran groomer injured a dog much worse - a 1/2" by 2-1/2" gash/chunk gashed out of the dog's neck. It must have been a 5S blade with WAY too much pressure? I'm still not sure how she managed to cause such a deep injury. Please do read up on safety for grooming. If you make a grooming injury:

*1) You are not a horrible person. It's bad, but sometimes cannot be avoided. It happens to the best.

2) You will probably have a far more distressed reaction than your dog.* For example, the yorkie hock injury was on a puppy's first groom. I was so upset about not just the injury, but the object of the first groom is to help the puppy feel safe and confident! But this puppy came back to see me for the next groom, completely confident and very happy to be on the grooming table. She has been back ever since (2 years now, I think) with no problems. 

I hope talking about it openly helps calm your concerns. You are right to learn how to be as safe as possible. Don't do anything uncomfortable for you, but don't be paralyzed by fear either.


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

tokipoke said:


> Technically you *could* get away with just having 2-3 #30 blades, Wahl stainless steel snap-on-combs, Andis 2-speed clipper, greyhound comb, and a slicker brush.
> 
> Those are very simple equipment. However, I am sure you would at least want a #10 blade to do the sanitary trim (shave the stomach and around genitals). I shave Leroy's sanitary with a #30 or #40. Those blades cut very close and depending on the color of the poodle (light poodles like white and cream), can cause razor burn or irritation. You have to shave very gently with a #40 around sensitive areas, and the dog must be used to it. You can use any clipper on the face, people prefer lightweight cordless once for face and feet just for the convenience. I've used my "heavy and bulky" Andis 2-speed on plenty of teacup poodle faces and feet with no problems. I guess as you groom more, you realize what you want to save time on (and improve hand ergonomics), and spend the money to do so.
> 
> ...



Not sure if I would be getting a rescue or a puppy. I would like a rescue if I can find one that works with our family, but a puppy would be fun someday too. I am still hoping to get away with no dryer, but there is a small part of me that likes to be prepared and thinks “you never know...” And now that you are mentioning all the “fun” coat changes can bring, it has added another reason to be prepared! I might just have to have a #5 and #7 around incase of mats too. What is the difference between a mat and a pelt?

IOD No 63 Detangling Conditioning Mist and CC Ice on Ice are recommended the most on here for mats and a brushing spray. Usually I read about IOD in combination with the word “mat” and CC for “brushing spray.” I assume they do the same thing, but is any one better than the other for tough mats vs normal brushing?

What is the largest size safe to use on the face? 15? Would I have to use scissors to have a longer look, or would guide combs help with this look?

so my grooming buy list...
Andis AGC Super 2-Speed
#10 for FFT
#5 and #7 split tooth comb in case of mats... though I have heard of safety concerns. 
#3/4f & #3F or go the Wahl guide combs route with 2 or 3 #30f (for the guide combs)
cc poodle comb
a slicker - still need to figure out what kind/size... any recommendations?
dryer - keep on my list as a just in case I decide to go for it. Which means figuring out my best bet... lvl K9 II or CC Kool dry from my reading so far. I had read about a $99 one that might serve my purposes too, but I already forgot what one that is.


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

tortoise said:


> I think it is impossible to hurt a dog with the 3-3/4 blade. Andis CeramicEdge Clipper Blade Size 3 3/4FC | PetEdge.com
> 
> This picture doesn't do its size justice. The cutter blade is 3/4" away from the dog's skin.
> 
> ...


As far as safety, I watched a few more videos and am feeling more confident again. I saw one of someone who knew nothing about grooming being “taught” and knew I could handle it much better than her. Ironically, the body gave me more anxiety than the FFT. Then I realized I have seen so many people groom FFT, and not the body. I think as long as I keep watching groomers, and hopefully can get a live demonstration, I think I will be alright! 

You make a great point with your #2 point about a grooming injury. I volunteered at a human society doing basic grooming (bath, blow dry, nails, bandana/bow) and cut many nails. Never had an issue , though I did try to groom dogs with light nails  Years later I cut my dog’s nail too short and have yet to try clipping nails again because I was too distraught! Thankfully my husband does it and recently we switched to using a dremal, so I am going to give it a try one of these days (but secretly, cause I really like the DH does it!!!) Does anyone have have any links with great safety info? I did not find anything in my first search. 

And yes, openly talking about it helps a ton!!!!! I really do think the more information I have, the better prepared I am and the less fearful/anxious I will be!


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

How important are grooming tables and arms for basic grooming like I plan on doing? I would assume it is easier on your back, but are there any other reasons? Would a basic 2x4 and plywood table with grooming arm work? My other issue to figure out is WHERE to groom. Outside or in our garage would be the best place, but we live in south dakota, so we have cold winters and I do not look forward to grooming in the non-heated garage... nor would I think it would be too safe while shaking and shivering. Our bathroom or mud room might have room for a folding grooming table...well, the table would fit, but would there be enough room for me to comfortably move around to get things done? I will have to go measure


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

What is the difference between 3 3/4 FC and 3/4 HT? Both say they are 3/4" cuts.


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

Spunky said:


> a slicker - still need to figure out what kind/size... any recommendations?




When I researched slicker brushes, I found that lots of people liked the "Doggyman" slicker:

Doggyman Slicker Brushes - Cherrybrook

I found a pet supplier selling new ones on Ebay a little cheaper.


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

Jacamar said:


> When I researched slicker brushes, I found that lots of people liked the "Doggyman" slicker:
> 
> Doggyman Slicker Brushes - Cherrybrook
> 
> I found a pet supplier selling new ones on Ebay a little cheaper.


What size do you have?


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## tokipoke (Sep 3, 2011)

Any slicker brush will do. There are brushes that are "soft" or "firm." Whatever brush you get, just make sure you have proper brushing technique, which is a patting motion with your wrist straight. You should be using your arm and not your wrists. I do not recommend a slicker brush with a slight curve to it. Maybe this is just my personal preference, but I hate them, and they don't encourage proper brushing technique. These brushes make you want to flick your wrist as you brush to follow the contour of the brush. The brush looks like this: Oscar Frank Universal Standard Soft Slicker Brush | PetEdge.com - Again, DO NOT get this brush - but only from my personal experience with them, I don't like them.

You should only get the finish cut (F or FC) blades. There is no need for skip tooth blades for the grooming you will do. A 3-3/4 blade leaves hair 1/2 inches. The 3/4HT blade leaves 3/4" inches of hair. They are different length blades. 

I have not used IOD products, but I LOVE Chris Christensen products, especially Ice on Ice. I also like Crown Royale No. 3 spray. But lately I've been using Ice on Ice over the CR spray. Add a splash of the Chris Christensen Day to Day Moisturizing Conditioner to the Ice on Ice and you are ready to tackle mats. There are mats you can brush out, it just takes some time. Here's a thread on Leroy's mats: http://www.poodleforum.com/9-poodle-grooming/19947-mats-coat-change.html

Then there are mats you have to splice with a dematter or letter opener. Keep in mind that the more you demat the hair either by brushing or dematting with dematting tool (looks like this: Master Grooming Tools Ergonomic Dematting Tools | PetEdge.com) - the more damaged the hair gets. So even though you "saved" the hair by being able to brush through it and leave it on the dog, it will mat again because you are ripping the hair and they tangle with each other. I've attached pictures of pelting. This is severe matting to where the mats clump to a solid mass close to the skin. This hair cannot be saved and must be shaved. When you shave it, the hair comes off in one big piece like the dog molted a shell. You can even lay out the pelt on a flat surface and it retains the outline of the dog. It is very eerie and sad once the pelt is off the dog.

For shaving the face or feet (shaved poodle feet), you can use a #10, #15, #30, or #40 (shortest blade: surgical length blade). And you shave in reverse. The color of the dog and skin sensitivity will determine which blade to use. The typical blade is a #10 in reverse on the face and feet because it is the safest blade. If you decide to leave longer hair on the face, it is quicker to trim the face to all one length using guide combs. Once you gain more confidence, then you can use scissors. You can even use blunt tip scissors for the ease of mind around the face area.

Definitely get some kind of grooming table (the plywood is fine), just make sure the surface is nonslip. The table and grooming arm help secure the dog while they are elevated. They behave better when they are off the floor. I use the Metro 4HP force dryer. It works well for what I need it to do, but I would get something different if I were grooming in a professional setting. I just use the Metro for home use on my poodle.


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## Camille (Feb 3, 2011)

Im not a proffessional but Some of my groomer friends suggested the same thing(All F or FC blades) and also mentionned that even THEY do not use 5 and 7 skip tooth blades to dematt. If they have to they will carefully use a 10 blade to get the fur off. Just because of the risks of skip tooth blades if not used properly. Then again some of my other groomer friends do use 7s for bad dematts. Personal preference. One of my groomer friends will use a 40 for some poodle faces(Not reccomended for an at home groomer and think this length is mainly used for some show poodles, proffessional groomers can correct me on this) while my other friend only uses a 10 for faces and then two other groomer friends I have use 15s for the face.XD this is where experience, research and preference all go into play. 

For example Henry my black boy has no problem with the 15 blade. Ive given esme slight razor burn with it. Ive been told I probably need to adjust how I handle my razor(Blade was not hot as I was checking it against my hand after every pass) and Also she could need to be worked up to a 15 blade as white poodles tend to have more sensitive skin and need to be worked up to a shorter blade AND I did the faces without giving them a bath so which dirty fur can also highten the risks of razor burn. Research research for sure. All I know is I will be buying a 10 blade for her for now and I MIGHT try her again in the future once My confidence has grown with handling the razor and I will also be buying rose water and aloe jell(Helps soothe a face after a shave.)

A note on the dryer. I STRONGLY reccomend it! Ive had esme for almost four years and we had a REALLY bad experience with matts once and it was due to not having a dryer and not brushing the coat properly. I had read everything I thought I had the right brushes and I was doing eveyrthing right but It just didnt do the trick she got wet one day and I brushed her out and she matted, Then she got dirty again and I tried to brush her and agan the matts clumped even though I was brushing. It was a horrible experience as it happenned fast. I was practically in tears as I brought her to the groomer. I didnt know what I had done wrong I showed her my brushes and she told me what I was doing wrong and also advised me that she should be blowdryed.

Also if your worried about the curly coat. Henry is a black mini, his coat curls right back after less than a day of being blowdryed he has the curly coat type you like so much. Esme on the other hand has the white poodle coat(Very straight and whispy) that is just her natural coat. Blow drying wont change that . After seeing the difference in my dogs coats too(Blow dryer REALLY HELPS in removing the matts). If I would have know four years ago what I know now My journey woud have been completely different. My dogs are so soft and easy to take care of now. Brush them every few days and I wash and blowdry them once a week. They keep the softest fur ever. always have Henry in my lap so I can wrap my arms around him and stick my nose in the back of his neck he smells so nice and is so soft


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## tokipoke (Sep 3, 2011)

Some grooming salons have a policy where you can ONLY use a #10 on poodle faces and feet because it lessens the chance of irritation and razor burn. However, on your own poodle, you can choose a closer shave and use a #40 (or #15 or #30). Leroy is a pet poodle and I use a #40 on his face and feet (when he had shaved poodle feet). He is in a Bedlington Terrier trim right now and half his face, ears, tail, and sanitary is shaved with a #40 in reverse. I've put him into a continental trim using the #40 in reverse on his hiney. His skin does not react badly to the #40, but some poodles DO, so you have to adjust to the sensitivity. Typically darker colored poodles take to a close shave better.

I would practice the technique of shaving the face and feet with a #10 until your are comfortable and then slowly bump up to a #15 to see how it goes. But since you may want full feet, you will only have to deal with shaving the face.


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

tokipoke said:


> Any slicker brush will do. There are brushes that are "soft" or "firm." Whatever brush you get, just make sure you have proper brushing technique, which is a patting motion with your wrist straight. You should be using your arm and not your wrists. I do not recommend a slicker brush with a slight curve to it. Maybe this is just my personal preference, but I hate them, and they don't encourage proper brushing technique. These brushes make you want to flick your wrist as you brush to follow the contour of the brush. The brush looks like this: Oscar Frank Universal Standard Soft Slicker Brush | PetEdge.com - Again, DO NOT get this brush - but only from my personal experience with them, I don't like them.
> Good tip, I started a board on pintrist on all the grooming tools I want, and will have to add your tip to the bush description.
> 
> You should only get the finish cut (F or FC) blades. There is no need for skip tooth blades for the grooming you will do. A 3-3/4 blade leaves hair 1/2 inches. The 3/4HT blade leaves 3/4" inches of hair. They are different length blades.
> ...


I just might be close to getting this figured out! ...at least closer!


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

Camille said:


> A note on the dryer. I STRONGLY reccomend it! Ive had esme for almost four years and we had a REALLY bad experience with matts once and it was due to not having a dryer and not brushing the coat properly. I had read everything I thought I had the right brushes and I was doing eveyrthing right but It just didnt do the trick she got wet one day and I brushed her out and she matted, Then she got dirty again and I tried to brush her and agan the matts clumped even though I was brushing. It was a horrible experience as it happenned fast. I was practically in tears as I brought her to the groomer. I didnt know what I had done wrong I showed her my brushes and she told me what I was doing wrong and also advised me that she should be blowdryed.
> 
> Also if your worried about the curly coat. Henry is a black mini, his coat curls right back after less than a day of being blowdryed he has the curly coat type you like so much. Esme on the other hand has the white poodle coat(Very straight and whispy) that is just her natural coat. Blow drying wont change that . After seeing the difference in my dogs coats too(Blow dryer REALLY HELPS in removing the matts). If I would have know four years ago what I know now My journey woud have been completely different. My dogs are so soft and easy to take care of now. Brush them every few days and I wash and blowdry them once a week. They keep the softest fur ever. always have Henry in my lap so I can wrap my arms around him and stick my nose in the back of his neck he smells so nice and is so soft


another vote to spend more money on a dryer! 
I am glad some dogs curl bounces back quickly. It is another case of light coats verse dark coats, or do reds have the not as curly issue too?


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## Camille (Feb 3, 2011)

Spunky said:


> another vote to spend more money on a dryer!
> I am glad some dogs curl bounces back quickly. It is another case of light coats verse dark coats, or do reds have the not as curly issue too?


I think Ive heard Cherie mention they tend to be in between(Adleast for the standards). Henrys breeder breeds miniature reds and they looked to be a bit in between for the curls too. Not as whispy as whites tend to get but not as tight as the blacks can get.

Then again some dogs dont follow the color rule! You can get whites with SUPER tight curls too XD


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

Spunky said:


> What is the difference between 3 3/4 FC and 3/4 HT? Both say they are 3/4" cuts.



3-3/4 is 13 mm, 3/4HT is 19mm. I think I said the wrong one in my post. I have the 3/4HT.


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## Minnie (Apr 25, 2011)

I'm addicted to gadgets and products so I'm not the best to answer but I was in your shoes not long ago and maybe the thoughts of a newbie might be of help.

Dryer - Do yourself a huge favor and buy a good one! I only dry a toy poodle and two Mini Aussies and I can't tell you how much time this has saved me! And investing in a good one will save you and your poodle's ears. I purchased the Chris Christensen Kool Dry Dryer and love it - variable speed and quiet for such a very powerful dryer. I could have gotten by easily I think with the Kool Pup Dryer which is lower in price but if you get a spoo you will want the larger one.

Slickers - There is a huge difference between a good and an okay slicker. This and the comb are worth spending the extra money with a poodle for sure. My favorite is the CC mark II slicker - as it is soft enough not to scratch - test it on your arm if it hurts you it will hurt them.

Combs - Huge difference between a regular comb and CC's buttercomb - these truly go through poodle hair like butter. One of the seminars this weekend had a quote "A brush will lie but a comb will always tell the truth" so it really is necessary to comb after you brush.

Shampoo - Most should be diluted even if the bottle does not have the info. CC's after you bathe really does make the drying process faster.

Sprays - Never brush a dry coat - always moisten I happen to like CC's Ice on Ice or Pure Paws mist but you could easily highly dilute a conditioner and it would work the same.

Best video on bathing / grooming I have watched - Super Styling Sessions by Sue Zecco and Jay Scruggs. Expensive $60 but worth it as it also shows brushing techniques.

One other website I just learned about this weekend at a grooming seminar - Lean2groomdogs.com - while in no way a substitute for hands on experience from a groomer they do have in depth videos on tons of topics that are well done - definitely not your typical utube.

Hope this helps - I'm just a beginner but learning is so much fun and a great bonding experience with your poodle if done correctly


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## mom24doggies (Mar 28, 2011)

tortoise said:


> I despise combs and use #3 (1/2") and/or #3-3/4HT (3/4")


Did you mean a 3/4 HT instead of 3-3/4? Because a 3 and a 3-3/4 are the same thing, they both leave 1/2". I don't even know what the difference between them is...is there a difference?

To the OP, you are going to want a blow dryer! Even if you spritz your dog after being dried and having a haircut, you want the dryer to get a nice finish on your work and to help prevent/check for matting. Air dried dogs mat up much easier for some reason. 

That's pretty much all I have to say, everyone else has covered it!


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

Spunky said:


> What size do you have?


Since the pup Im getting is a standard, I got the large.


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

tokipoke said:


> For shaving the face or feet (shaved poodle feet), you can use a #10, #15, #30, or #40 (shortest blade: surgical length blade). And you shave in reverse.


Why do you shave those areas in reverse as a rule? I thought that just made it come out one blade size shorter?


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

Jacamar said:


> Since the pup Im getting is a standard, I got the large.


I thought so but I wanted make sure. I assume it would not be necessary/must have but would it be handy to have a small one for legs, ears and other small areas?


Sent from my iPhone using PG Free


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

Spunky said:


> I thought so but I wanted make sure. I assume it would not be necessary/must have but would it be handy to have a small one for legs, ears and other small areas?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PG Free


You mean two slickers? I doubt that would be a good use of your funds. But I dont have my pup yet so Im no expert.


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

mom24doggies said:


> Did you mean a 3/4 HT instead of 3-3/4? Because a 3 and a 3-3/4 are the same thing, they both leave 1/2". I don't even know what the difference between them is...is there a difference?
> 
> To the OP, you are going to want a blow dryer! Even if you spritz your dog after being dried and having a haircut, you want the dryer to get a nice finish on your work and to help prevent/check for matting. Air dried dogs mat up much easier for some reason.
> 
> That's pretty much all I have to say, everyone else has covered it!


I don't remember what I was talking about with the blades, but it may have been what you said. I was pretty sure whatever I looked at took the same amount off but looked different. 

I have officially added the dryer on the must have list. 


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

Jacamar said:


> You mean two slickers? I doubt that would be a good use of your funds. But I dont have my pup yet so Im no expert.


It was just my awkward way of asking if I should keep a small slicker I found when organizing or toss it into the good will box. 


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## tokipoke (Sep 3, 2011)

Shaving in reverse is about two blade lengths shorter. You can shave the face and feet with the grain of the hair if you want, it is your dog. However, I find it much easier to shave the face and feet in reverse, especially in between toes and the hair around the nail bed. Shaving in reverse allows a clean, smooth shave and shows off a tight foot. It's also a good safety practice to shave AWY from the eyes then towards it. So shave against the grain in between the eyes, shave against the grain around cheeks and eyes, scooping the clippers towards you and not the dog.


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## Quossum (Mar 18, 2011)

I have a spoo and find the two sizes of slickers useful. I have both a single and a double wide Les Pooches. I use the double wide on the body and the single on the legs. So don't donate that narrow one yet! 

--Q


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## PlayfulPup (Aug 8, 2012)

Quossum said:


> I have a spoo and find the two sizes of slickers useful. I have both a single and a double wide Les Pooches. I use the double wide on the body and the single on the legs. So don't donate that narrow one yet!
> 
> --Q


Sweet! Now as long as I don't loose it in the mean time, lol. 


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

Quossum said:


> A lot of people like them, but you don't really "need" a cordless to do the face. The powerful clippers for the body will work just fine. I don't have a cordless (yet!). They can be good for touch-up work.
> 
> --Q


This is the exact question I was researching! Every time Im about to pull the trigger and order the Bravuras, I chicken out. $140 seems like so much for clilppers that dont have the speed for nice finishing work on the body. I like the idea of Andis AG2 (or similar Andis) for the body, but that would mean two $140 clippers if I get the Bravuras too. A pro groomer told me the Andis are too hot and harsh (Im paraphrasing) for face work, but I figured I'd come here and look for more opinions.


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## tortoise (Feb 5, 2012)

tokipoke said:


> Shaving in reverse is about two blade lengths shorter.


Shaving in reverse will give you the length _the blade is labeled to cut._ Shaving with the grain is about twice as long, just what tokipoke wrote.

For example, a 7 blade is a 1/8'" cut against the grain. But with the grain you'll get about 3/8" for most coat types, probably a bit shorter with a poodle.


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## tokipoke (Sep 3, 2011)

Jacamar said:


> This is the exact question I was researching! Every time Im about to pull the trigger and order the Bravuras, I chicken out. $140 seems like so much for clilppers that dont have the speed for nice finishing work on the body. I like the idea of Andis AG2 (or similar Andis) for the body, but that would mean two $140 clippers if I get the Bravuras too. A pro groomer told me the Andis are too hot and harsh (Im paraphrasing) for face work, but I figured I'd come here and look for more opinions.


If you really don't mind the time it takes to shave a standard poodle's face with small clippers, I suggest getting the Bravura mini. It's only $70-80 (depending where you purchase). I LOVE mine. It's comes with a #30 blade (not adjustable), the blade stays cools and I love how the teeth are rounded so it does not nick, even when I use it quickly and firmly. I really like using it for shaving the face, but just takes a lot longer and I need to increase my speed. It cuts hair really well too. It's great for feet as well, whether shaving the bottom of the pads or shaved poodle feet.


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## Quossum (Mar 18, 2011)

I have the two-speed Andis, and yes it does get very hot, very fast. I have many blades and keep changing them out, going from face to feet, then back to face as I change to the appropriate blades.

--Q


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

Thanks for the info and advice, you guys.


I used to think that hot-running clippers were "bad", so I rejected the Andis because everyone says they get very hot. But now I realize that the tendency to heat up is an unavoidable trade-off for speed. Higher speed clippers are going to get hotter faster, thats just the physics of it. A few other factors like how well oiled they are and the material of the blade affect the equation too, but all other factors being equal, higher speed clippers will get hotter faster. Now that I understand that, I just have to decide what my priorities (and budget) are.


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

tokipoke said:


> If you really don't mind the time it takes to shave a standard poodle's face with small clippers, I suggest getting the Bravura mini. It's only $70-80 (depending where you purchase). I LOVE mine. It's comes with a #30 blade (not adjustable), the blade stays cools and I love how the teeth are rounded so it does not nick, even when I use it quickly and firmly. I really like using it for shaving the face, but just takes a lot longer and I need to increase my speed. It cuts hair really well too. It's great for feet as well, whether shaving the bottom of the pads or shaved poodle feet.



A 30 blade seems pretty short for a newbie like me. I see it comes with combs. Do they work ok for the face?


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## Jacamar (Jun 2, 2012)

Oh I see I was confusing the Bravmini with the arco mini. :doh: 
The Bravmini doesnt come with combs. 

I think the Bravmini has a five position guide that allows for longer cuts than the 30 blade would otherwise give?


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